Located on the eastern coast of the island of Java, Surabaya was officially founded in 1293. The etymological origin of the city's name is believed to be Javanese, where the word suro means shark and buaya, crocodile. According to local legend, a shark and a crocodile once fought to see which of them was the strongest creature in the region. Both animals are now emblems of the city and are represented on the official flag of Surabaya as well as on the city's monument, the Tugu Pahlawan.
Surabaya was originally discovered in the 16th century by the first Western explorers from Portugal and identified as a Muslim state attached to the kingdom of Demak. The city was later taken in 1743 by the Dutch East India Company. One of its historical highlights also points out that it was occupied by the Japanese in 1942, during the Pacific War.
Surabaya also witnessed the first battle of the Indonesian National Revolution in 1945, hence the nickname "City of Heroes". The Battle of Surabaya was triggered by the assassination of a British general inside the city walls, and the revolt quickly spread to the rest of the country, which was then under Dutch rule. It was taken over shortly afterward by the Dutch armed forces, but the revolutionary movement did not weaken. It was not until 1949, after bitter fighting, that the Netherlands agreed to grant Indonesia its independence under pressure from the international community.
In recent years, the city has earned the nickname "Sparkling Surabaya" because of the lights that decorate its parks and streets at night. However, even if Surabaya is perceived as a relatively safe city, many expats tend to be overly cautious and prefer living in controlled-access residential areas that are often located on the outskirts of the city or in guarded apartment buildings.
The population within the official city limits of 326 square kilometers has been declining over the past few years. But the wider urban metropolis, including the outlying areas of Surabaya, has a population of just under 10 million.
The traffic, being in tune with the city's population, is often problematic. As is the case in major Indonesian cities, traffic jams are not unusual, especially during rush hour. To escape the hustle and bustle of heavily congested traffic, you may want to consider moving in close to your workplace.
And if you are more of a nightbird, the G-Walk or Loop streets of Surabaya will delight you with their many food stands and bars. That said, it's also worth noting that most expats in Surabaya prefer settling on the city's west side.
In Surabaya, expatriates prefer renting to buying property, even if rentals are not considered cheap when compared to other parts of the country. As a matter of fact, it is very difficult to become a landlord as an expat in Indonesia, even if it can happen in some rare cases. But in comparison to other tax havens, like Singapore and Hong Kong, it is still possible to find comfortable accommodation in Surabaya at a reasonable price. And as in most major cities, the cost of your rent will depend on the location and type of accommodation you choose.
Remarkable landmarks of Surabaya
The city of Surabaya has preciously preserved many relics of its colonial past, including the typical Dutch architecture of some administrative buildings and churches. One of the most famous remnants of this era is the Gedung Negara Grahadi.
The city also boasts the Cheng Hoo Mosque, inaugurated in 2007 in honor of the Chinese Muslim admiral Zheng He. The latter made several stops in Java during his travels in the 15th century.
Surabaya is equally known as the home of the only synagogue in all of Indonesia. It is estimated that there are about 20 people of the Semitic faith in Surabaya, but the synagogue is not active due to a lack of congregants.
The Dolly district is notoriously famous for its prostitutes. It is considered the biggest district of this kind in all of Southeast Asia and is regarded as the Asian equivalent of the Red Light District of Amsterdam. The district is said to have been named after a madam who once worked there. In fact, there used to be a large number of brothels there, but the authorities shut them all down while attempting to bring order and morality back to the area in 2014. But prostitution has never stopped there.
Surabaya harbors the port of Tanjung Perak, which was originally established during the Dutch East Indies as the first port of Indonesia. In 2020, Tanjung Perak was ranked the 45th container port in the world in Lloyd's One Hundred Ports. Before the Covid-19 crisis began in Indonesia, it was loading and unloading an average of over 6 million TEUs (twenty-foot equivalent containers) annually.
Surabaya International Airport is the second busiest airport in Indonesia. It serves major cities in Indonesia and is also connected to Hong Kong, Brunei, Johor and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, Singapore and Taipei in Taiwan. Before the Covid-19 pandemic in Indonesia, there were approximately 780 flights connecting Surabaya to Jakarta, making it one of the ten busiest airports in the world.
Surabaya has four railway stations: Gubeng, Surabaya Kota, Pasar Turi and Wonokromo, while the main public transportation in the city is the bus and cab.
Where to live in Surabaya?
If you are looking for reasonable rent in Surabaya, a studio or a homestay accommodation will come in handy. Most of the local population lives in a metropolitan area called Gerbangkertosusila. Also, note that there are many slums around Surabaya. Most foreign professionals choose to live in West Surabaya, as this area has a large expatriate community and is particularly well served by international schools, supermarkets, and other facilities. There are also many golf courses that are popular with wealthy expatriates. In terms of housing types, you'll find high-rise condominiums, serviced apartments in mid-rise buildings, and single-family homes in exclusive communities. Some of the most popular areas in West Surabaya include:
- Graha Famili, a prestigious real estate area offering family homes and high-rise apartments,
- Darmo Satellite Town, which has many spacious homes,
- Citraland, an area known as the Singapore of Surabaya because of its wealthy residential properties,
- Puri Matahari and Graha Residen areas are also worth a look if you are looking for serviced apartments. These include rather spacious and comfortable studios and duplexes.
In most cases, expect to pay a minimum of two years' rent in advance before moving into a house, and one year's rent in advance, for an apartment. This practice is widespread in Indonesia. However, due to the increasing number of houses available for rent throughout Indonesia and lower demand, it may be possible to negotiate the payment of the rent in several installments. And if you are a skillful enough bargainer and know how to negotiate, it might even be possible to reach an agreement for monthly payments. But do not bet all your marbles on that, as this kind of practice is quite uncommon in Indonesia.
If you are renting a house in Surabaya, you will not be asked for a security deposit. However, in the case of an apartment, you will most likely have to pay the equivalent of one month's rent, which you will normally be required to pay along with the full long-term rental payment. Also, bear in mind that utilities such as water and electricity are considered additional expenses in Indonesia. There are not usually included in the rent.
There are dozens of gated communities all around Surabaya. These safe-access neighborhoods are home to the largest number of expatriates. Some of the trendiest ones include Agus Lianto, Karangpoh Tandes Surabaya, SURABAYA Property, MoCA Residence, The Gayungsari, Laguna Regency and Astoria Park. Most of these residential areas have been developed by real estate consortia composed of Chinese business people associated with Indonesians. As a coastal city, Surabaya boasts a number of beaches, the most famous of which is undoubtedly Kenjeran Beach, located on the eastern side of the city. Nearby is the Kenjeran Park, prized for its walks and ocean views. The area also harbors a nature reserve made up of mangrove forests in the eastern area, called Ekowisata Mangrove Wonorejo. Shopping is one of the favorite activities of Surabaya residents. The city has several well-known shopping malls and districts, such as Pakuwon Mall, Tunjungan Plaza, Ciputra World, City of Tomorrow Mall and Royal Plaza, to name a few.
How to find accommodation in Surabaya?
If you are already in Surabaya, make sure to visit the different neighborhoods to have a feel of where you want to live. To achieve such, look for signs indicating properties on rent (disewakan rumah). Alternatively, you can do your research online, or directly contact a real estate agent in the city, or even ask your local contacts if you have any.
Be aware that once you have secured and accepted a rental offer in Surabaya, you must register your new address with the local police. This is extremely important, as defaulters may face a large penalty. If you choose to stay in a hotel long-term, however, you will automatically be registered with the police.
Cost of living in Surabaya
The cost of living in Surabaya is significantly more affordable than in Indonesia's capital and largest city, Jakarta, but still higher than in other major cities in the country. According to estimates, you will need to earn just over 27 million Indonesian rupiahs (IDR) per month in Surabaya to have the same lifestyle as a professional earning 33 million IDR per month in Jakarta.
A single meal in the cheapest restaurants and kiosks in the city will cost you between IDR 15,000 and IDR 40,000. If you opt for a fancier place, the cost of a meal for two people consisting of a starter, a main course and a dessert should be between 120 000 and 500 000 IDR. The price of a liter of milk in a supermarket is about IDR 20,000, whereas a local beer costs IDR 40,000, while imported beer costs IDR 50,000. Be aware that the price of meat is relatively high, like everywhere else in Indonesia. For instance, a kilo of beef costs around IDR 110,000. The same goes for wine, where a bottle bought in a supermarket will cost you more than IDR 400,000, which is almost as much as a meal for two in an upmarket restaurant.
When it comes to renting, you should expect a one-bedroom apartment in the city center to cost around IDR 3,440,000 per month and just over IDR 2 million in the suburbs. If you are in Indonesia with your family, a three-bedroom apartment will cost, on average, more than IDR 8 million per month and more than IDR 5 million in the suburbs. In addition to the rent, you will need to budget for utilities such as water, electricity, heating, air conditioning and garbage collection services. The additional total monthly fee may just come over IDR 1 million.
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