Roy in Bali : "The Balinese are extremely overt, friendly and curious"

Where are you from, Roy, and what are you doing nowadays?

My name is Roy. Prior to moving to Bali in 1998, I was a freelance art and antiques dealer in New York City and New England, USA. These days I still dabble in dealing fine art but mostly work in assisting my Balinese family with its varied business interests here on Bali. My father-in-law is well known as Pak Alang Alang, alang alang being the grass roofs often seen here in Bali.
My mother-in-law has a busy warung, which is a sort of village convenience store. Another brother-in-law is a well-known and established artist, another is a politician and a great architect. And to be sure, both my Balinese wife and I find great satisfaction in our work with some NGO/Charity organizations here on Bali.

Why did you choose to move to Indonesia?

I've always had the feeling that Bali chose me rather than the other way around. My first trip here to Bali was rather accidental and a "time filler" after completing a business trip to Hong Kong back in 1997. Having a few days before being needed back in New York, I dropped down to Bali for a look and a few days to relax. Those few days changed my life forever, as the mistress we call Bali seduced me beyond my ability to resist.
After returning to New York, I simply could not get her out of my mind, or my dreams, so I decided to take an open leave of absence to reckon with this once and for all. I came back for what was supposed to be another visit, and I never left.

What were the procedures to follow for a US national to move there?

Moving to Indonesia is really pretty simple. Finding a job here however is not. The most important "procedure" is to assure that you have the proper visa for your stay, be it short, long, or permanent. Another important thing for US nationals is that they register themselves at the nearest US Consulate Agency office, the main Consulate in Surabaya, or the embassy in Jakarta. This is important from a number of respects, none the least of which is to get your voting forms in order to participate in US elections.

How long have you been in the country?

I've been living on Bali 24/7 for the past 16 years. I fell in love with a Balinese Princess shortly after moving here, and we married soon after. We have three sons, each of which is proficient in Indonesian, Balinese and English. We live in my wife's ancestral village just outside of Ubud and a stone's throw from the Royal Pita Maha resort along the sacred Ayung River.

What has attracted you to Bali?

That list would be endless. Top on my list though would be the way the Balinese live, which is all about family and community. All aspects of Balinese life centers around family and their village as well as their religion which is rich with ceremony and short on dogma, sermons and commandments. Bali is all about maintaining balance between the forces of good and evil. In the West, it seems to me that we are slowly loosing the importance of family and community. You could live in New York City for years and never know your neighbor right next door. In Bali, that just doesn't happen.
Another major attraction, and one which was impossible for me to resist, is the rich culture to be found here in Bali. Everyone here is an artist, and that is no exaggeration. The level of artistic talent to be found among the Balinese is mind boggling. If a Balinese is bleeding, that isn't blood, rather, that is Grumbacher crimson oil paint. It doesn't matter if we are talking performing or applied arts as virtually all Balinese are artists in one way or another.
Most all Balinese girls are taught one or more of the traditional Balinese dances right from when they learn to walk. Dance is an essential part of temple ceremonies, and dancing to please and entertain their Gods is essential. You can see the effects of learning dance in even the oldest of Balinese women who still have perfect posture, and an elegant confidence in the way they walk. In the Balinese language, there is no word for art, and there is no word for love. These concepts are beyond man, rather, they are under the sole purview of the Gods. And for certain, they are blessed with copious amounts of both.

Are you currently working? What are the local labor market's specificities?

More or less, I am half retired and half still working. As for the job market here, it is almost non existent for foreigners. Jobs are protected for the locals, and that's a tough concept to argue with. But this will change quite a bit in 2015 as the new ASEAN agreement comes into effect. That will pretty much enable citizens of ASEAN member countries to move around to other ASEAN member countries and be easily employed.
For other foreigners, including US citizens, in order to employed in most sectors, the candidate needs to have special skills or experience not available in the current local pool of Indonesian citizens.
Many expats, especially on Bali are either retired, investors in a company (for which they can work), or "trust fund babies". On the other hand, as native born English speakers, US citizens can sometimes find teaching jobs in many areas of Indonesia.

Was it difficult to find accommodation there?

Finding accommodations here, be they for long or short term is very easy for the most part, and best of all, the choices are endless. One can live with a Balinese family for as little as $5.00 a day or move into one of the three Aman Resorts and spend $1,000.00 a day. Foreigners are not allowed to own property here, but long term leases are easy and safe. Of course, this does depend on which area of Bali one is considering moving.
The densely populated South, for example, being over-loaded with accommodations, but in the more remote areas, like in the central mountains or far western Bali, the choices are fewer. As diverse as is Indonesia, Bali is also diverse on all levels depending on the area.
I always suggest to folks, be they coming here for a vacation, or to live, to not make definitive plans until after they arrive. Even during peak tourist and holiday seasons, it's not hard to find great places to stay by just walking into reception, or looking around. And for sure, one's bargaining position is always enhanced when actually being here, cash in hand!

How do you find the Indonesian lifestyle?

For me, there is no "Indonesian" lifestyle per se. This country is more culturally diverse than any other country in the world, so it's more like, Jakarta life style or Bali life style or Yogyakarta life style and on and on endlessly. Truly it would take several long lifetimes to experience each and every aspect of what constitutes Indonesia.

I like to use an analogy with my American friends who have never been to Indonesia before. I tell them to imagine breaking up the lower 48 states into 15,000 separate islands spread the distance from Los Angeles to even beyond northeast Maine. Imagine there are no bridges connecting any of these islands, and that within 8,000 of these islands live a people of some 400 various ethnic roots and with roughly 200 indigenous languages. The national slogan for Indonesia is "Unity in Diversity." Diversity? That is one heck of an understatement.

For me, Indonesia is more like The Federation of 15,000 Planets! I tell anyone with the slightest interest in possibly moving or even coming for a long holiday to go out and get a copy of "The Ring of Fire" by Lawrence and Lorne Blair. This excellent documentary on Indonesia is around 20 years old, but this film provides an excellent introduction to the incredible diversity to be found here in Indonesia.

What has surprised you the most at your arrival in Bali?

The endless sea of white enamel in the endless smiles of an amazing and culturally rich people. These days I'm inclined to take that treasure for granted, but each time I need to fly off to another part of the world for one reason or another, short as those trips are, I can't wait to get back to Bali. I truly hate it whenever I have to leave Bali, and even before it's wheels up on my departing flight, I'm already missing it.

Have you been able to adapt yourself to the country and to its society?

Yes, but this took a lot of time, effort and patience. Being a New Yorker, I am used to the phrase, "in a New York minute". Here there never seems to be any sense of urgency, and I found that quite frustrating in the beginning. Here the old slogan, "time is money" does not hold water. Here, time is far more precious than money.
Also, while the Balinese are extremely overt, friendly and curious, their questions can be a bit unsettling at first..."how old are you, are you married, do you have children"...etc.

What does your every day life look like?

These days I live entirely in the present. I don't dwell on the past, nor do I plan much for the future. I have no routines at all. I get up when I want to get up, eat when I'm hungry, work when I feel motivated, and basically make the best of whatever each day has to offer.

Any particular experience you would like to share with us?

As with anyone new to a strange land, I made plenty of mistakes in the beginning...many of them quite embarrassing. For example, on my first visit I met a lovely Balinese lady who was introduced to me as Ketut. When replying to the introduction, I mispronounced her name..."Nice to meet you Kentut". Kentut is Indonesian for passing gas, so that wasn't so good! And there are plenty more "faux-pas" I made along my journey. But, what makes this all so easy to deal with is the inherent Balinese sense of humor. They immediately love and respect anyone who can laugh at themselves and not take themselves so seriously.

What is your opinion on the cost of living in Bali? Is it easy for an American expat to live there?

I think it's very easy for an American to live in Bali, regardless if they come from a big city or a farm in the mid West. The people here are incredibly friendly, open and willing to help, the year round climate is glorious and pretty much steady year round, and these days, with all the imported goods that are now available as well as excellent computer and internet access, there really isn't much to miss. There are several thousand American expats living on Bali, but the chances are that your new expat friends will be from all over the globe, as Bali is a magnet for many folks from all sorts of cultural backgrounds.

Truthfully, I have far more European, UK and Australian friends than I ever had when living in the States, and that only adds to the rich experiences one has living here in Bali. As for costs of living, the major expenses, like housing, transportation, utilities and food are definitely much lower than on average in the states. That is rapidly changing however, especially regarding housing as land prices have increased at mind boggling levels in recent years. Locally made goods are always much cheaper than imported goods, so one tends to buy local products whenever possible.

I know a number of retired expats who live pretty well on their monthly social security checks, but they aren't out to dinner every night, and their housing isn't lavish, nor do they drive a brand new Land Rover. Other areas of Indonesia are much cheaper than Bali and for the simple reason that Bali's economy is so much tied into tourism.

How do you spend your leisure time?

For us, our daily life is more or less leisure time. Sure, the kids go to school, and some things just need to get done, but the mind set of work versus leisure is much different here in Bali. For something different, we enjoy much of the same activities as the endless number of tourists who come to Bali each year. I enjoy a good game of golf, time at one or another of the "hidden beaches" of Bali, or taking the kids to one or another of the various amusement parks on Bali.
For many years I would pack up a bag, grab my wife's cousin Wayan, and her younger brother Ketut and go off for a five day road trip of Bali. We would literally go where the SUV was pointing, and only on the most remote village roads. These road trips were incredible and as equally enjoyable to my Balinese family members as myself. Yes, Bali is a small island, but you would be amazed just how many remote and off the beaten track areas of Bali there are.

What are the differences between life in Bali and in the USA?

In a word...far, far, far less stress. Truly, it is nearly impossible to be stressed here. It's simply too beautiful, too awe inspiring and too calm to get stressed. Nothing seems to faze the Balinese, and in time, those silly things that used to cause you worry and stress just evaporate into thin air.
Seriously, I don't even own one pair of closed toe shoes, no socks, no suit, no watch... virtually nothing that causes me to be anything but totally casual and relaxed day after day. In the states we live on schedules...when to sleep, when to be awake, when to eat, when to work...it goes on and on and on.
chool for our kids is virtually the only scheduled event of our daily lives. We eat when we are hungry...none of this breakfast at 7 am, lunch at noon and dinner at 7 pm routine for us. While it sounds trite, we literally go with the flow and bend with the breeze. Yes, I know that this can sound incredibly irresponsible, if not downright hedonistic, but I have no doubt that it is a far healthier life style, both mentally and physically.

Do you miss your home country?

I haven't been back to the States in 16 years. Not surprisingly, family and friends still back there are far more inclined to jump on a plane and come visit us here in Bali. That suits me fine as I hardly relish the thought of such a long and arduous journey half way around the globe. I don't really miss the US, but I do occasionally try to catch up on events there, and of course, there are always MASH and Seinfeld re-runs for when I'm feeling a bit nostalgic. Of course I love my home country and my roots. And, in raising our three sons, I often teach them about their dad's culture, US history, and our way of life. Our oldest son Bima will very likely spend his junior year in high school in California living with very close friends, and their daughter will likely do the same living with us here in Bali. And one day we plan to all pack up and do a National Lampoon Vacation style road trip of the USA!

Would like to give any advice to future expatriates?

Unfortunately, here on Bali, expats ebb and flow like the tide. I like to say, "many are called, but few are chosen". I know that sounds elitist, but it's very true. For the many expats I've known who failed to make it here in Bali, the reason always boils down to the same thing: a failure to embrace the local customs, way of life, and an adherence to doing things the way they were used to doing things "back home". Here, one need to embrace patience as though she was your mistress. Purge your mind of every pre-conceived notion of the way you think things should be, and keep your mind open.
The Balinese have their own peculiar way of doing things, and it's worked for them for thousands of years. Time has almost no meaning here. Traffic lights and stop signs are more of a suggestion. All sorts of things could drive you nuts, but only if you let them. Try as best you can to assimilate into local culture and learn about it. Get some good books about Bali and read them...and the one book that I always suggest is titled "Secrets of Bali."
The most important thing though is not to pack up and move here before spending at least a few months on a "trial run". Don't contract for a place to live until you've seen it yourself. Keep at least one bank account open in the US, or in other words, don't sever all ties.

Any plans for the future?

Plans? Hey, I live in Bali! We don't "do" plans here. Seriously, I have no plans, and I cannot tell you just how refreshing and comforting that life without plans can be. However, I do have hopes and aspirations, and they all center around our three boys and their continued growth into the remarkable young men that they are becoming. An essential aspect of Bali Agama Hindu, which is the official term for Balinese "religion" is Buddhism. We live in the present, we don't dwell on the past, and we make few, if any, plans for the future.