Living in Fes: the ultimate expat guide

The job market in Fes centers on tourism, traditional crafts, education, and agro-food processing. While the city lacks the industrial base of Casablanca or Tangier, it offers unique opportunities for expatriates interested in hospitality, cultural preservation, and academic work. The Fes-Meknes region accounts for 13.4% of Morocco's unemployed population, reflecting broader national employment challenges.

Key Economic Sectors

Tourism drives much of Fes's economy, with the city attracting visitors to its UNESCO-listed medina, leather tanneries, and traditional workshops. Expatriates find opportunities managing riads (traditional guesthouses), leading cultural tours, or working in hospitality management. The traditional crafts sector—including leather goods, ceramics, metalwork, and textiles—employs thousands of artisans and offers openings for those interested in craft management or export businesses.

The education sector provides stable employment through language schools, international programs, and Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah University (USMBA), which employs over 1,370 academic staff. Remote work has also become increasingly viable, with reliable internet infrastructure in the Ville Nouvelle making Fes attractive for digital nomads.

Employment Data Overview

Morocco's national unemployment rate reached 13.3% in 2024, with youth unemployment (ages 15-24) at 36.7%. The service sector created 160,000 new jobs nationally in 2024, while industry added 46,000 positions. Average monthly salaries in Fes hover around 4,525 MAD (approximately USD 450) after tax.

Sources: Morocco's Higher Commission of Planning (HCP), Numbeo 2025

Fes holds a unique place in global academic history as home to the University of Al-Qarawiyyin, recognized by UNESCO and Guinness World Records as the world's oldest continuously operating educational institution. Founded in 859 AD by Fatima al-Fihri, this institution pioneered the concept of degree-granting education. Today, Fes combines this rich heritage with modern higher education options.

University of Al-Qarawiyyin

Originally a mosque-school complex, Al-Qarawiyyin was integrated into Morocco's state university system in 1963. The institution focuses on Islamic studies, Arabic language, and traditional sciences, operating across four colleges in Fes, Tétouan, Marrakech, and Agadir. Its historic library houses over 4,000 manuscripts dating from the 9th century, including works in Arabic, Hebrew, and Latin. While primarily serving Moroccan students pursuing religious education, the university attracts scholars researching Islamic history and Arabic studies.

Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah University (USMBA)

Founded in 1975, USMBA serves as Fes's primary modern university with over 86,000 students across 12 institutions organized into four academic poles: Languages and Humanities, Legal and Economic Sciences, Science and Technology, and Medical Sciences. The Times Higher Education World University Rankings placed USMBA as Morocco's top-ranked university in 2022. Programs follow the LMD system (Licence, Master, Doctorate), with engineering diplomas and medical degrees also available. USMBA participates in ERASMUS Mundus, enabling student exchanges with European universities. Tuition for Moroccan public universities remains minimal, while private institutions charge higher fees.

Sources: USMBA Official Website, QS Top Universities

Families relocating to Fes face more limited international schooling options compared to Casablanca or Rabat. However, several quality institutions serve the expatriate community, with additional options in nearby Ifrane (approximately 70 km away). Morocco's education system requires compulsory schooling from ages 6 to 13, with instruction in Arabic and French in public schools.

International School Options

The Al Akhawayn School of Ifrane (ASI) operates under Al Akhawayn University, offering an American curriculum from kindergarten through grade 12. Located in the mountain town of Ifrane (about one hour from Fes), this school serves expatriate families seeking English-language, American-style education. Annual tuition ranges from USD 8,000 to USD 15,500 depending on grade level.

Within Fes itself, private Moroccan schools offer bilingual programs in French and Arabic, with some adding English instruction. These schools follow the French educational system leading to the Moroccan Baccalaureate (equivalent to A-levels or high school diploma). Private school fees in Fes typically range from 20,000 to 40,000 MAD (USD 2,000-4,000) annually for primary education, significantly lower than international schools in larger cities.

French-Language Education

Morocco's network of French schools, accredited by the Agency for French Teaching Abroad (AEFE), primarily operates in Casablanca, Rabat, and Marrakech. Families requiring French curriculum education may need to consider boarding options or commuting arrangements. Local private schools in Fes offering bilingual French-Arabic programs provide an alternative pathway.

Sources: John Catt's International Schools, Morocco Ministry of Education

Fes offers remarkably affordable housing compared to Morocco's coastal cities, with options ranging from traditional riads in the ancient medina to modern apartments in the Ville Nouvelle. The property market remains accessible to expatriates, with rental prices among the lowest in major Moroccan cities.

Expat-Friendly Neighborhoods

Ville Nouvelle: The French-built modern district appeals to expatriates seeking contemporary comfort. Tree-lined boulevards, European-style cafes, international restaurants, and modern shopping facilities create a familiar environment. This area offers the best nightlife, reliable utilities, and easy access to public transport. Apartment rents run higher than elsewhere but include modern amenities.

Fes el-Bali (Medina): The ancient walled city provides an immersive cultural experience. Foreigners increasingly purchase and renovate traditional riads (courtyard houses) for personal residence or tourist rentals. Navigation requires learning the maze-like streets, and cars cannot enter. Living here means embracing traditional rhythms—donkey transport, call to prayer, and artisan workshops as neighbors.

Agdal and Saiss: These developing districts near the university offer modern apartments at lower prices than central Ville Nouvelle. Popular with young professionals and students, they provide good value with growing amenities.

Rental Prices (2025)

Housing costs in Fes remain highly affordable by international standards. The following figures reflect current market conditions based on Numbeo data.

Sources: Numbeo December 2025

Fes offers extraordinary cultural depth unmatched elsewhere in Morocco. The city's ancient medina, living craft traditions, and rich culinary heritage provide endless exploration opportunities. While nightlife remains limited compared to Casablanca or Marrakech, cultural activities and outdoor experiences more than compensate.

Historic Sites and Museums

The Medina of Fes el-Bali itself serves as an open-air museum with over 9,400 alleyways containing historic monuments at every turn. Key sites include the Bou Inania Madrasa (14th-century Islamic school open to non-Muslims), Al Attarine Madrasa with its stunning tilework, and the Chouara Tanneries where leather has been processed using traditional methods for centuries.

The Dar Batha Museum occupies a former 19th-century palace, showcasing Moroccan arts including ceramics, textiles, and woodwork. The Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts occupies a beautifully restored 18th-century caravanserai with rooftop terrace views. The Borj Nord Arms Museum houses over 5,000 weapons spanning Moroccan military history.

Cultural Events

The Fes Festival of World Sacred Music (typically held in early June) brings international performers for concerts in historic venues throughout the medina. This week-long event draws visitors worldwide and offers residents unique cultural programming. Jazz in Riads complements the main festival with intimate performances in traditional courtyards.

Day Trips and Nature

The nearby Atlas Mountain foothills offer hiking and scenic drives. Ifrane (70 km south) provides a mountain retreat with cedar forests and ski facilities in winter. The Moulay Yacoub thermal baths (20 km northwest) offer natural hot springs popular for relaxation. Meknes, another imperial city, sits just 45 minutes away by train, making easy day trips possible.

Sources: Moroccan National Tourist Office

Life in Fes follows traditional Moroccan rhythms, with mornings starting early at fresh markets, afternoons slowing for heat and meals, and evenings bringing social activity. The medina operates largely car-free, with donkeys and handcarts handling goods transport through narrow alleys. Modern conveniences concentrate in the Ville Nouvelle, where daily routines feel more familiar to Western expatriates.

Transportation Options

Petit Taxis: Red metered taxis operate within city limits, carrying up to three passengers. Fares remain inexpensive—expect 6 MAD (USD 0.60) base fare plus approximately 8.85 MAD per mile. Taxis provide the most practical way to move between the medina and Ville Nouvelle.

Public Buses: Local buses connect the Ville Nouvelle with medina gates and outlying areas. A single trip costs 4 MAD (USD 0.40), with monthly passes at 100 MAD (USD 10). Useful routes include Bus 16 (airport to railway station) and Bus 19 (railway station to central medina).

Trains: Fes railway station in the Ville Nouvelle connects to all major Moroccan cities. ONCF trains reach Casablanca in about 4 hours, Rabat in 3 hours, and Meknes in 45 minutes. First-class tickets offer comfortable travel at reasonable prices.

Walking: The medina must be explored on foot—there simply is no alternative. Most expatriates living in Fes el-Bali walk extensively, while those in the Ville Nouvelle combine walking with taxis.

Lifestyle Considerations

Shopping happens at traditional souks for fresh produce, spices, and local goods, or at supermarkets like Marjane and Carrefour in the Ville Nouvelle for imported products. Friday is the Muslim holy day, when many shops close midday. Ramadan significantly affects daily routines, with restaurants closed during daylight hours and evening activity intensifying after sunset.

Sources: ONCF Morocco Railways, Moroccan National Tourist Office

Fes ranks among Morocco's most affordable cities, with living costs approximately 50% lower than Casablanca and significantly cheaper than European cities. A comfortable lifestyle is achievable on modest budgets, particularly for those adopting local shopping and dining habits.

Monthly Budget: Single Person

The following estimates reflect typical expenses for a single expatriate living in Fes, combining local habits with some imported goods and occasional dining out.

Monthly Budget: Family of Four

Family expenses increase primarily through larger housing needs, school fees, and additional food costs.

Sources: Numbeo December 2025