Let's face it, Kathmandu's city center - Thamel - is not exactly a restful place - pretty noisy in fact - with all the inconveniences of modern city life, constant traffic and all that, but there is a beautiful exception to the rule which I would highly recommend to those who do not already know it. I am talking about the "Garden of Dreams", about whose location it is said is: "a two minute walk and one million miles from Thamel". Situated on Kanti Path corner, it is the only oasis of peace and tranquility I know within city limits. Entrance is not free. Those interested can check, but I believe that the current normal entrance fee for non-nepalis is in the order of Nrs.200 (and less if one buys a book of 10 tickets) This outstandingly neo classical historical garden was built with great flair and good taste by Field Marshal Kaiser Sumsher Rana (1892-1964) and completely and adroitly restored between 2000 and 2007 with Austrian funding. Beautifully landscaped, and adorned by a wide variety of flower and fauna, it is an oasis of peace as I said, and a lovely place to take a rest, read a book or just lay down on the grass and take a little nap! There is a restaurant on the premises and this enclave adjoins the Kaiser Library. New visitors to the capital will love it.
There is one other place I would also recommend. It is tops on my short list and strange enough, not so many people (including many nepalis) are even aware of its existence. It is the Taragaon Museum. Taragaon is only a short walk from Boudnath and the Museum there together with its art gallery, coffee shop and other amenities are actually all located on the very grounds of the Hyatt Regency Hotel. I am in no doubt that the majority of foreigner/visitors who stay at that five star hotel are driven straight through the compound's main gate/entrance without stopping and don't even know about the museum's existence, near that entry point. To my mind, the place - like the Garden of Dreams - is totally unique and well worth a visit.
Designed by another Austrian, architect Carl Pruscha, Taragaon Museum site has been described as one of the best examples of modernist yet contemporary architectural structures of Nepal. To know more, see the information provided by Wikipedia on "Taragaon Museum". Built in 1972, the place first served as a little hotel but was subsequently re-opened to the public as a museum following its renovation in 2014. Personally, I find the architecture quite fascinating with its very diverse irregular and varied geometric forms. Perfectly round windows, unexpected little walls jotting out, rectangular structural constructions etc. As one can imagine, there is no other place like it in all of Nepal, and the complex is a tribute to this modern and very gifted austrian architect who created it.
The museum's art gallery organizes frequent art shows for local artists. In addition, they have public exhibits of drawings, maps, sketches and other items of historical interest, on view for the public.
Good place to take a leisurely stroll or have a snack at the nearby coffee shop. Entrance is free.
If I were to say that I am not impressed with the quality or standards of modern buildings and most of the constructions of what I now see in the capital would be an understatement. To me, these two aforementioned places are the most welcome exceptions, like havens, in terms of aesthetics and a real pleasure to the eye. In the case of the "Garden of Dreams", we can applaud the Reign of the Ranas whose dynasty covered the years 1846-1951 and admire their legacy and the quality of their urban planning (as can also be seen in Babermahal Revisited and elsewhere) Ah, the good old days.....! What to do in Kathmandoo?!
