EXPAT CAR MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR (QUITO)

And most of the helmets are of the plastic variety...some are very colorful, but are of little use except not to be stopped by the Transit cops.  Some take of their mirrors so as to be able to slide around cars.  May be there should be a law that states that those who believe that two of a kind beats four of a kind, use toy helmets etc should have a tattoo on their forehead that reads "DNR, FULL ORGAN HARVEST"

JK,
I know, if it were not so appalling it would be comical. It almost seems like, well to me anyway. That many people simply just don't care about the safety of their family or their own.

About the only thing worse than seeing small children crawling around the car or a baby in the mother's lap in the front seat. Is the sight of small children on the tank of a motorcycle.... Even with the "Plastic" helmet !!?..

I just don't get it??

I saw 5 on a motorcycle in Afghanistan. Guy up front, then a baby, then a wife, then another baby, then what I assume was another wife. I'm of the opinion that the western world has gone too far to protect people from themselves... warning labels on everything, seatbelt laws, helmet laws, no smoking anywhere... on and on and on. I prefer to live in a world that has just enough danger to thin the weak from the herd. I do get myself in a lot of trouble with my family when I park the car and refuse to drive until everyone has their seatbelt on. They still persistently think seatbelts are only for the front.

Last year I watched a couple guys trying to drive down the Ruta del Sol while holding a surfboard on a small motorcycle. Man, the winds were blowing them all over the place. Natural selection at work.

The possibility of major rainfall, flooding and mud slides posses a good question. What would or should you do, if on the road and this happens?

As you travel the streets in Quito, you will find that not only is a majority of the city in a valley, but there are many low lying streets. Some are even marked, to prevent use while flooded.

So what do you do?

Having a good handle on alternate routes is always a good idea, anyone trying to travel on a Sunday knows this from the street closures for bicycle riders.

So what if you are on a street and the water starts to flow? To most the answer is fairly evident. Get to higher ground. This may mean you will need to abandon your vehicle. A little running water looks harmless enough, but it does not take much water to carry a car away. Remaining in the car may seem like a good place to be but, as you and other cars pick up speed there is no telling where you may end up. Not to mention the fact that if you wind up in a hole or ditch, you will soon be under water.

The force of running water is very strong, and opening a car door may not be an option. Think of crossing a stream, or standing on the beach as the waves move in and out. The debris that will also now be in the water adds more danger to the equation. 

By law each car is required to have a first aid kit, as well as other safety items. A good addition would be a small pointed hammer, like a rock hammer. It does not need to be large, even 10 ounces of a solid metal with a point is enough to break window glass. Side windows being the target, front and rear windows are thicker tempered glass that take more to break, and even then resist shattering so the glass will remain in a sheet due to the tempering. Side glass will act this way also, but is thinner and easier to manage.

The hammer or suitable item should be in the glove box or a place you can easily reach. You may not have time to retrieve it form the trunk or other storage area. This type of insurance is normal in places like Arizona, which can have flash floods often.

If you live in a dwelling on the side of a hill or canyon. You need to consider the possibility of mud slides. Not only will it flow easily through your home, but could relocate it. If you look up the hill, you will see carved paths formed by rainfall, these paths will be free from trees and bushes, as well as some rocks making it a least path of resistance for water or mud to travel down. If this path leads to your home or even close, you need to have a pre-planned evacuation strategy. It will happen fast, so at the first sign of heavy rain you need to asses the situation and take action.   

Many situations can be avoided through common sense actions. The first step is to recognize that there is, or could be a potential threat, then come up with viable solutions or actions to mitigate that threat.

JK,

I could not agree more...

All the Caution, Warning, Danger labels and directives only serve to eliminate a persons need to "Think". We have become so used to being told what's good, bad or dangerous, that unless people see a sign they think there is no danger. It has gotten way out of hand. I mean really, a mother needs a label on peanut butter to know NOT to feed it to her infant!? Or an elderly woman, needs a label to inform her that a cup of coffee is HOT.

I agree, Natural Selection should be free to do it's work. There is a reason for thinning the weak from the herd.

I also like to enjoy the freedom to make my own decisions. At times I do er on the side of caution. However, when I decide I want to repel, inverted down the side of our building. I do so, knowing that I have mitigated the dangers involved, through proper preparation, training and good ole common sense. Not from someone nit picking my every move. In the end, it is my decision to make. I will accept the consequences based on my own judgement, not from another's paranoid micromanagement.

But that's just me.

GMC(SW) wrote:

MAINTENANCE TIP #3

TIRES;

Tires are a very important item which is often overlooked in the scheme of car care. There is almost no other automobile part that can have as much impact on vehicle operation as the tires.

The tires have a function in handling, ride, fuel economy and performance.

In case anyone thinks GMC was overdoing it with a thousand-word post about tires and tire tread, consider the penalties that Ecuador imposes on tire-rules violators.

If you get caught driving on tires with smooth patches or lisas -- or the tires are in bad condition -- these are the penalties...

1. Jail time -- "pena privada de libertad" -- of five to 15 days ...

2.  Losing five points off your drivers license.

3.  Your vehicle will be impounded hasta superar la causa de la infracción -- until the cause of the infraction is rectified.

GMC, any idea how the violator would fix the problem if his car is locked up at the impound?

cccmedia in Quito

Source .. Agencia Nacional de Tránsito, www.ant.gob.ec

GMC(SW) wrote:

"I also like to enjoy the freedom to make my own decisions. At times I do err on the side of caution. However, when I decide I want to repel, inverted, down the side of our building, I do so, knowing that I have mitigated the dangers involved, through proper preparation, training and good ole common sense."

You rappel -- upside-down -- down the side of your building in Quito?!

Pictures, please!


                                                         .

jessekimmerling wrote:

I saw 5 on a motorcycle in Afghanistan. Guy up front, then a baby, then a wife, then another baby, then what I assume was another wife. I'm of the opinion that the western world has gone too far to protect people from themselves... warning labels on everything, seatbelt laws, helmet laws, no smoking anywhere... on and on and on. I prefer to live in a world that has just enough danger to thin the weak from the herd. I do get myself in a lot of trouble with my family when I park the car and refuse to drive until everyone has their seatbelt on. They still persistently think seatbelts are only for the front.

Last year I watched a couple guys trying to drive down the Ruta del Sol while holding a surfboard on a small motorcycle. Man, the winds were blowing them all over the place. Natural selection at work.

Last November in the Philippines I saw a guy with a tricycle (motorcycle with side car) take 7 kids to school every day, about a 2 mile run on the national highway (2 lane blacktop).  It was business as usual.

cccmedia,

The correction, or repair of a violation while in impound is a situation I have no practical experience with. I have been to the impound yard where they take the violators of the driving restriction "Pico y Placa" I believe is what it's called.

A family members car wound up there post accident. People, not so much the cars, seem to come and go freely. I did not see any evidence of repairs going on. I will look into it and see what I can find out.

cccmedia,

Thanks for addressing my post length. it is something I have considered, and I wondered how they were being responded to in general.

The trouble I have is, I could provide a basic "Blurb" on a topic. But that would be very vague. Even at that, it would serve some purpose, but would leave out a substantial amount of valuable information. I try to keep to the facts with a minimum of fluff. Not all people interpret information in the same way, I think that a step by step guide or a mental picture can make things more clear to a wider audience.

Granted tires and many automotive topics may not be stimulating reading. I would prefer to elaborate in full, rather than possibly leave out an important piece of information. I double space thoughts in an attempt to make it easier to read. I think it is easier on the reader to keep topic information in one post rather than having it broken up and possibly difficult to follow.

If this is an issue for folks, I would entertain any solutions offered.

cccmedia,
I have been known to entertain the neighbors on several occasions. The wife has returned home on occasion to find a small crowd watching me ride "wheelies" down the block on a motorcycle, or rappelling down our building in various configurations.

Certain skills are "Perishable", meaning if not practiced you loose them. So, to remain "Frosty" I will from time to time engage in some, what could be called "Unnatural acts". Motorcycle tricks, rappelling, science experiments in the kitchen and the detonation of "Small", explosives made with common house hold products.

Life around our "Casa", is seldom a dull moment.

I uploaded some pictures, "Urban Rappel" with GMC(SW). I am not sure where they went !? I don't know how or if you can add pics to posts? I uploaded them to "Quito Pictures".

GMC(SW) wrote:

cccmedia,

Thanks for addressing my post length....

I could provide a basic "Blurb" on a topic. But that would be very vague. Even at that, it would serve some purpose, but would leave out a substantial amount of valuable information. I try to keep to the facts with a minimum of fluff. Not all people interpret information in the same way, I think that a step by step guide or a mental picture can make things more clear to a wider audience.

Granted tires and many automotive topics may not be stimulating reading. I would prefer to elaborate in full, rather than possibly leave out an important piece of information. I double space thoughts in an attempt to make it easier to read.

Frankly, GMC, I don't think the normal 'rules' apply to your technical posts.

Take the tires post.  I don't have a car yet, so I didn't peruse it for the purpose of retaining all the information now.

If I had just bought a car, it would be different.  I would want to know all the information you provided about tire care in Ecuador, especially since I learned from the ANT sample tests about the strict penalties for non-compliance with the maintenance rules.

For non-technical posts, my personal rule is to break up longer commentaries into two or three posts ... unless I think a story I'm telling is particularly compelling.

Use the bold option accessible at the plus-sign to the right of the five-part options panel, to aid the reader's comprehension when appropriate and for section titles.

As you may have noticed, it's also my policy to make it easy on the reader's eyes by having short paragraphs within any post, with a blank line separating the 'graphs.

cccmedia in Quito

cccmedia,

Roger that,

Thanks for the tips. As long as there interest and value gained from the information, I will keep it up.

MAINTENANCE TIP #4

Why Does a car battery go dead?

A battery is definitely not the sexiest item on a car. In fact, it’s safe to say that very few people ever inquire about these black boxes when researching their next vehicle purchase. However, a car with the best gas mileage, the fanciest safety features, and the most exotic hood ornament won’t even make it off the lot if the battery doesn’t work which arguably makes it the most important aspect of the car.

A car battery works exactly the same as any other battery, The battery has a ‘positive’ terminal and a ‘negative’ terminal, and electrons flow through plates from one terminal to the other. The primary function of a car battery is to start the engine by powering the starter motor and provide electric power to the spark plugs to ignite the fuel. It also provides electric power to the lights, horn etc. while the engine is off. After starting, the electrical power is supplied by the alternator.

The battery is a 12-volt battery, the voltage used on most modern vehicles, motorcycles use a 6-volt system. Especially considering that the batteries in your household flashlight supply a whopping 1.5 volts of electricity. And just like your typical flashlight, camera, and smoke detector batteries, car batteries eventually wear out and need to be changed from time to time. An average battery life will be in the 3-4 year range, But that life can be dramatically shortened depending on how you treat your car:

Extreme Temperatures: Extreme cold and/or heat stress the internal chemistry of the battery and induce premature failure, the definition of “extreme” might not be as far-reaching as you think. The temperature need only creep above 100°F or run below 10°F to result in very bad news for your car. It turns out that car batteries eventually experience battery sulfation, a build-up of lead sulfate crystals. And leaving your car in extreme conditions will speed up the process. “This sulfation can shorten the life of the battery and lengthen the amount of time needed to charge the battery. Luckily these conditions are not common in Ecuador. 

Faulty Charging System: It’s the responsibility of the alternator/generator to keep the battery charged. But if it provides a charge that’s too high or too low, then you have a problem. The battery is 12.6V DC when fully charged, so the alternator/generator creates a voltage between 13.4Volts to 14.7V DC to maintain a correct state of charge based on the electrical load. If the battery is being under or over charged the culprit could be anything from mechanical flaws, a loose connection, a bad circuit, a faulty alternator, to driver error, such as forgetting to turn off the lights. Many new cars will do this automatically.

Short-Term Driving: Driving your car too often can contribute to a short battery life, but the number of miles driven isn’t nearly as important as how they were accumulated in the first place. “Many short drives will lessen the life of a battery faster than a few long trips, This is because, the most taxing use of the battery in your vehicle is the initial engine start. Keep in mind that while the ignition system is requiring this burst of power from the battery, the alternator hasn’t even started the recharging process, which is time consuming and occurs while you drive.

Keeping up with your car’s regular maintenance schedule is the best way to prevent having to shell out too much cash for car batteries. Losing a battery once a year for three years indicates something off in the electrical system; it could be as simple as a glove box light that stays on even when the door’s closed.

There are several types of car battery; A sealed battery has no caps and requires no extra maintenance. The standard battery will have caps for adding water and electrolyte. This must be checked. There are also sealed gel batteries, but are normally used in performance applications and are expensive.

Battery maintenance and testing will be covered in a future post, so stay tuned.

So, in Qutio my car always starts. On the coast it often doesn't. Changed the battery. Nothing. Changed the starter. Nothing. Readjusted the carb/timing for lower elevation. Nothing... Any ideas? When it happens it's like the battery is totally dead. No click, no attempt to turn over. Try a few dozen times and it eventually starts.

JK,

It could be a charging issue. What is the make and model, engine size of the car?

If it "Only", has this issue on the coast, Do you by chance have a multi-meter or volt meter?

If you can give me the information above, I will look into it for you.

I'm quite sure it's not a charging issue. It goes from not even trying to turn over, to firing right up after a random number of attempts, so the battery is charged... My thoughts are some sort of connection issue, or possibly some weird computer issue I don't begin to understand... but, It's a 93 mitsubishi, so I don't know about the computer theory. I'm not there. I'm in N Dakota for a couple more months. I'm just trying to explain to my wife so she stops handing over $ to mechanics to replace things we've already replaced in our attempts to solve this mystery problem. When I'm back in Canoa I'll pull out the multimeter and maybe we can solve this once and for all.

JK,

It sounds like it could be an ignition issue. If the battery is staying charged, I would lean towards an intermittent electrical fault. They can be the most difficult to track down, due to the fact that it will work on and off again. It is much easier when it simply stops altogether.

The bad part is, it can turn into an "Easter egg hunt" for many mechanics, and they will replace part after part trying to solve the issue. This is a problem because you will spend allot of money on parts you don't need and the mechanic can possibly cause even more issues in the process.

That year car will have an Electronic Control Module (ECM). There are specific ways to isolate sections of the wiring harness to isolate a fault. If done wrong you risk "Smoking" the ECM. Even the small transient voltages in a meter can render the ECM useless.That is an expensive learning curve.

If you will provide the model and engine size of the car I can look at the best way to isolate the fault. That way when you get back I can provide a plan of attack. I have conducted long distance fault isolation on equipment in the past, it can be more challenging not being able to put my hands on it, but I can give you a step by step procedure to use which should show results or a fix fairly quick.

Sounds like it could be something like a bad engine ground (or other connection), that is exacerbated by higher heat and/or humidity.

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/inde … 446AAs2gOo

Worth checking.  Intermittent problems are the worst!

The worst trouble with intermittent faults, is the fact that they are intermittent.. Any Technician will tell you this.

While the internet (Yahoo) can be a useful source of general information, I do not recommend 100% faith in the information posted. Especially test and repair procedures. What may work in one application, could have dire consequences in another.

I am not implying reliable information can not be found, but you are taking a big chance, which could result in further damage, or even personal injury.

There are thousands of possible scenarios, which can cause various simple, or complex faults when dealing with automotive electronics.   

The "Only" way to safely isolate an electrical fault, is in the proper use of electronic fault isolation techniques. These techniques are sound, through the use of wiring diagrams, signal flow charts, diagnostic tables and good old formal training and experience.

I also use internet resources, there are several sites. My personal favorite is "ALLDATA", it is a subscription only, technical site designed for professional automotive technicians. I have used this site as well as others for many years. 

The internet is a powerful tool. But good judgement and caution should be used. Especially when the results may cost you money.

Trying to diagnose anything over the internet is not the way to go, admittedly.

I've seen bad grounds, and/or bad connections cause many symptoms like Jesse describes.

Just FWIW although it's been many years, I was certified in Front End, Brakes, Heating and Air Conditioning, Electrical Systems and Engine Tune-up when it was still called the NIASE, back in the 70s, before it was shortened to just ASE.   I made my living at it until I got involved with computers and got a BSCS, but the same trouble-shooting and analysis skills have served me well in both professions.

Yeah, I only use the internet for diagnosing medical issues. I leave important stuff like car maintenance to the professionals.

That's true,

Electronics work the same in any circuit. It was much easier before the days of OBD (On Board Diagnostics), then came the Control modules, sensors etc, as well as OBD2. These days an  Automotive Technician needs just as much test equipment as any other Electronic Tech.

Which in my case was handy, since I could use much of the same equipment for working in the gas fields as in the garage. Having a hand held dual channel "O" scope saved me from buying expensive gear for testing many systems, like injector pulse, testing magnetic pick ups etc.  It really limits all the self taught or "Shade Tree" mechanics out there. You can't simply jumper out a solid state circuit as you could in the past.

MAINTENANCE TIP #5

Automobile oil,

Automotive lubricants, the area of lubricants can be a mine field. In this post I will address the most common  lubricant and the most important. Engine oil.

Engine oil is the life blood of any engine. Without it, the engine overheats and seizes, pistons frozen in the cylinders. The job of oil is twofold; it helps cool internal parts, and it provides a liquid barrier between metal parts. The most critical time for an engine is at start up when cold. At his point the engine has cooled and the oil has drained down to the oil pan.

Engines are used in all climates, so not all oil is the same. Oils are broken down by viscosity, or weight. A single viscosity oil, 5, 10, 15 etc. Is of one weight and remains constant with temperature. A multi-viscosity oil, 5-30, 10-30, 20-50 etc. Will change weight as temperature changes. The lower the number the thinner the oil. It works like this, at startup the oil needs to be thin enough to circulate easily, to ensure lubrication of the engine. As temperatures increase the oil takes on the properties of a higher viscosity (thicker) oil, providing lubrication and resisting thermal breakdown.

This is important in an area like Quito, as the mornings are cool, and can reach higher temperatures as the day goes on, then cools again. In this case a multi viscosity oil is needed. The proper weight of oil to use is set by the manufacturer. Most 4 and 6 cylinder small cars will use 5W-30 oil. You may have seen oils marked as; 5W-30, 10W-30 etc. What this means is that the oil was tested at cold temperatures "Winter", that is where the "W" comes from. I will leave out all the testing parameters for clarity. A single viscosity oil could be used in an area with little temperature change.

Sometimes as an engine wears, say after 100K miles some people will use a higher viscosity oil to make up for engine wear. I.E. go from 5w-30 to 10w-30 oil. This is not a solution and does not make up for excessive clearances from wear. An 8 or 10 cylinder engine will normally use a 10w-30, 15w-30 or 20w-50 oil. This depends on the application. 

The lack of healthy oil is the number 1 killer of an engine. As technology has increased the oil change intervals have changed somewhat also. The major factor is driving habits and climate. The general rule of thumb is three months or 3k miles. Again, this can be less depending on climate and driving. If you primarily drive in town, with slow moving traffic, in a warm climate the combined heat will speed the thermal breakdown of the oil. This will be seen when you pull the dipstick, and see the darker color, and thinner oil, as opposed to when fresh. How often you drive under these conditions matters also. If they are daily, short trips or all day on the road.

In Quito, I have found that the oil change shops like to use 20w-50 in almost everything?... As most of the cars are 3, 4, or 6 cylinders, this made little sense. The most common response was, "The Weather", another was that many other oil weights are harder to find. I have not found this to be a fact. So this presents a problem. Our 2013 Nissan Versa, has a 1.6ltr. engine. It needs 5w-30 as manufacturer specified.

Using 20w-50 causes problems; it will never be thin enough at startup, causing increased wear, and it will be too thick at normal operating temperatures for proper lubrication. I would have to drive "All day" with a fully loaded car, in stop and go traffic to even warrant moving up to 10w-30 oil.

When you get your oil changed insist on the correct oil. If they do not have what you want, buy it from Kywi or even Supermaxi and take it with you. The same goes for synthetic oil, it will cost more but can push oil changes out to 7k miles, again depending on conditions.

WARNING: Some manufacturers do not recommend use of synthetics.

Another important issue is the oil filter. There are many filters out there, today they should be made to the same minimum standards. Having said that, I would still recommend using a common known brand, like Fram. 

As you look at your engine, you may see a solid block. You have to keep in mind that inside that block are hundreds of moving parts, most metal to metal. Without proper lubrication using the correct viscosity oil, what is considered normal wear, will be accelerated and can result in reduced engine life and failure. Both cases are expensive situations.

Thank you for the wonderful talk on cars and such.
What about oil for diesel motors……many cars (including my Tucson) have diesels as well as small trucks…..

AMDG,

Nice catch, I skipped right over all the diesel owners. Although not intentionally.

Engine Oil: The Difference between Gasoline and Diesel Engines

Just like regular gasoline engines, diesel engines require regular maintenance that involves changing the lubricating oil that keeps your vehicle's parts running smoothly. If you can change the oil on a gasoline engine, you can change the oil on a diesel, just be aware of a few differences. The change interval for a diesel engine is 7,500 miles average. Refer to owners manual for exact mileages.

Because diesel fuel is sometimes called diesel oil, be aware that the oil you have to change is not the fuel oil but the oil that lubricates the engine. This job requires lubricating oil that’s specially designed for diesel engines, not gasoline engines. After you understand that distinction, the actual work involved is the same as it is for conventional vehicles except that you may have to do the task more often on a diesel.

Be sure to check your oil dipstick at least once a week, and change the oil filter every time you change the oil. Don’t be surprised if you change the lubricating oil in your diesel, run the engine for two minutes, and check the dipstick only to find that the new oil has turned pitch black; this is normal and not a reason to change the oil again immediately.

Your owner’s manual tells you the maximum interval you can wait between changes, but the more often you change the oil on any vehicle, the longer the vehicle will live and the healthier it will be. That goes double for diesels because extreme heat and pressure help to contaminate the lubricating oil more quickly. 

Because the procedure is the same, all the instructions for changing oil and oil filters in conventional vehicles are relevant for diesels except for the oil classification codes. (The classification codes for automotive oils tell you which oil to use under a specific set of conditions.)

As new and improved oils appear on the market, these codes have changed from the original CA to CB to CC, and so on, up to, currently, CJ. Each new level can replace previous ones, and the earliest oils are considered obsolete. Unless your vehicle is several years old, your owner’s manual will list the proper API category oil to use. The manual also specifies a viscosity grade in the form of a number preceded by the initials “SAE.” This grade refers to the “weight” of the oil and the temperature conditions under which it will flow. Diesel lubricating oil comes in the same range of weights as oil for conventional vehicles.

To be sure you’re putting the most-improved diesel oil in your vehicle, check out the most recent API classification codes at the American Petroleum Institute (API) Web site and click on Engine Oil Guide.

The same rules apply as far as climate goes. Because of the increased temperatures and pressures a diesel engine are operated at, proper oil and realistic change intervals are critical. To ensure the right oil and filter is used a good source of information is the Mobiloil.com site. You will know what to look for when a shop changes your oil. Some vehicles must have a certain oil filter for proper operation, an unsuitable substitute could be a disaster.

Oil Quality: GAS and DIESEL ENGINES

The API, American Petroleum Institute, The API classifications are different for gasoline and diesel engines: For    gasoline, listings start with "S" (Meaning Service category, think spark plug ignition), followed by another code to denote standard. "SN" is the current top grade but "SH" is still the most popular.

For diesel oils, the first letter is "C" (Meaning Commercial category, think of Compression ignition). "CJ" is the highest grade at the moment, (technically CJ-4 for heavy-duty) but "CH" is the most popular and is well adequate for passenger vehicle applications.

When looking at the oil container, gas or diesel, you need to look for the API Service Symbol. It will be a circle, normally on the top of a can or side of a bottle. The top of the circle will say "API Service SH for gas, or CH for diesel".  In the middle it will say "SAE" 10W-30 for example. It may on the bottom of the circle say "High Quality", "Fuel Conserving" etc.

WARNING: If you do not see the API Service Symbol, do not use it. It may be substandard oil not made to the API standards. The API and SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) are the two major standards lubricants are made to. API indicates the quality classifications for oils, and SAE indicates the viscosity standards of the oil to cling to metal. 

You should also ensure the container is sealed, if not the shop may be reusing containers and filling them from a bulk drum of oil.

I know, all this just to change my oil !? In a questionable environment, assume nothing. It is better to be sure then to suffer the consequences.

If there are more diesel questions out there, "Fire Away".

MAINTENANCE TIP #6

Brake Systems and Service.

A vehicles brake system not only stops the vehicle, but if not in good repair can cause drive ability issues. There are two basic brake system configurations.

1. Disc brakes, front and rear. This is the current, and most popular system available. There is a round metal disc or "Rotor" attached at the end of each axle, The disc is two sided, one facing in and one facing out, behind the wheel. Riding on the disc is a caliper, it holds two brake pads, one on each side of the disc. The brake pads are of a softer materiel than the discs, and through friction slows the rotation of the wheel.

2. Drum brakes, in today's vehicles you can still find drum brakes in the rear of some vehicles. A drum brake, is as the name implies. It is a round drum which covers the other components of the wheels brake. There are many more parts involved and require adjustment. This is why they are going away on many models and changing to the disc brake system.

The both brake systems are actuated by hydraulic pressure. A simplified system is as follows;

1. Brake pedal. Depressed to start the flow of hydraulic fluid in the system.
2. Master Cylinder. This is where the fluid starts moving. The master cylinder is divided into two hydraulic "Circuits", one for the front and one for the rear wheels. It also stores the brake fluid, and is the "fill" point for the system.
3. Brake Lines. Separate lines run for the front and rear brakes. This allows for safety, so if one circuit is damaged or leaking it will not affect the other.
4. Brake Caliper. The caliper has one or more pistons, which compress the brake pads against the disc.

NOTE: This is a simple explanation, there are other components in most systems, like ABS. Automatic Brake System.
I will address the ABS system in another post.

The most common brake issues come from the brake discs or pads. The disc being a harder materiel, will still have wear and can be smoothed out "Re Surfaced" to a certain point, to regain performance. The pads are designed to be consumable and require replacement after a certain amount of wear.

Various types of pads can be found, ranging from the basic materiel used to ceramic pads which will cost more. The type used depends on, driving style and driving environment. Ceramic pads are designed for performance applications, in which there is high heat and speed friction. The expense is not needed for normal Quito driving. It all comes down to thermal efficiency and brake fade envelopes, which I won't go into here.

The disc is the key piece which dissipates heat in the system. Most discs are made from similar metal, with extra to allow for re surfacing when needed.

Brake Wear Indications.

At some point everyone has heard the loud ear piercing shriek of worn brakes. Or it may have been a dull scraping  sound, that you can feel in the steering wheel. All brakes have a wear indicator, normally on the pads. This indicator after wear will contact the disc or other moving part indicating wear. The grinding, scratching, shrieking sounds are telling you it is time for new brakes.

You do not always have to replace the discs at each change of the pads. The discs should last 5 to 10 years or more, depending. The pads can last 15k, 20k, 30k or more miles, depending on driving habits and environment. 

The brakes can cause driving issues without making a sound. If a disc is warped, or damaged it can cause a shudder or pull to one side when braking. Damage to a pad can cause similar issues. This needs to be checked.

Repair and Replacement.

A brake job can vary in price depending on materials used and what needs to be done. I recommend getting a job quote prior to work. If they say they cannot tell you until they take it apart, go elsewhere. Have them show you any replaced parts, you can compare parts and see the wear for yourself. Always ensure you have the fluid level correct, especially after service. Be very careful using brake fluid, it will remove the paint from your car. Never use anything other than DOT 3 fluid or as marked on the master cylinder.

A brake job is not difficult to perform, and can take as little as 15 minutes per wheel. There are repairs and maintenance actions which can be done with basic hand tools you may use around the house. I have done many repairs myself since my first car. It allows for inspection to identify potential problems, the satisfaction of doing the work myself, not to mention I save money to use on other things. To be honest, I really don't trust anyone else to do the work. Especially when it involves safety.

If you have questions or want more information just ask. If you decide you would like to try a repair or maintenance, let me know. I can tell you based on your level of knowledge and the job if you should give it a shot. If you need help or want to learn to do it yourself, let me know.

Until then, drive safe... 

MAINTENANCE TIP #7

What is that growling sound, from my engine?   

On occasion you have heard your own car or a car on the street that make a "Growling" sound, especially when the steering wheel is turned. This is normally due to the power steering pump. At times it may do it even when not turning.

The power steering system is yet another hydraulic system on a vehicle. Power steering fluid, under pressure is used to make steering easier. If you have ever driven an older car, or even a very, very basic car with few options, you can appreciate power steering. 

The power steering system can have its own issues. The basic system as as follows;

1. A fluid reservoir. To check fluid level and add fluid as needed.
2. The pump itself
3. The drive belt which runs the pump
4. Associated hoses to steering components

The power steering pump is mounted to the engine, it is driven by a belt which gets its power from the engine. With the engine running, a constant pressure is maintained to assist steering. In most cases the pump drives a bi directional piston which will drive the steering components to the right or left. There are some other components involved, by I will keep it simple.

The "Growling" sound you may hear can be caused by various issues. The sound is actually hydraulic cavitation. Air has been introduce into the system and displaces the fluid in the pump causing the sound. Which gets louder as the pressure increases when turning the wheel.

Damage to the pump can result from; A lack of fluid, damaged hose, worn internal bearings, the belt is too tight etc. In general if it is making noise it will most likely need to be replaced. Some pumps can be rebuilt, the problem is obtaining the repair kit here in Ecuador.

The most important thing, which is often not done, is to determine "Why" the pump failed. A mechanic "Should" be able to access the situation and come to a conclusion, prior to installing a new pump. Something as small as the drive belt being to tight, will cause an uneven load on the internal bearings and result in "The Growl".

Drive belts have changed in vehicles, older cars had several belts driving various accessories; A/C, steering, air pump, alternator etc. These belts are called "V belts". They have a "V" shape to them. Newer belts are called "Serpentine Belts", they are wider and have ridges or grooves in them. They now will use one serpentine belt to drive most or all accessories on newer cars. This is good and bad.

Good because, you only need one belt. Bad, because if that belt breaks, everything stops. A bi-weekly check should be made of all fluid levels and of drive belts. To check a drive belt, you find the middle of the belt, between two pulleys. You twist the belt,and should not be able to pass 90 degrees rotation. Another way is to push the belt down, in this case you should not see a deflection of more than 3/4 ". If so the belt is to loose. They can be adjusted, if you are not familiar with it, don't try it. You can wind up in worse shape.

Take it to your trusted mechanic, or let me know.

The power steering fluid is similar to transmission fluid, but, it is not the same. The service people here may try to tell you different, as they did me. Yes, they are both red, and yes, they both come in a bottle.

You can, substitute transmission fluid for power steering fluid. BUT, not the other way around..... I will keep this simple, transmission fluid is made for either manual, or automatic transmissions. These days many will use automatic fluid in a manual transmission. This is okay. Transmission fluid is designed to meet high specifications for operating in an automatic transmission. There are many variables needed in transmission fluid that are not needed in steering fluid. Which makes steering fluid less expensive.

In Ecuador you will likely not find a bottle of power steering fluid. That's okay, use a good quality transmission fluid and you are good. Never, add anything to a automatic transmission that is not to factory specifications as indicated in the owners manual. If you have questions, Google it, or let me know.

The fluid is corrosive, wear gloves, and eye protection. Protect your cars paint and dispose of old fluid responsibly.   

Questions are encouraged.

Happy motoring... 

GENERAL QUESTIONS   

Anyone having any automotive questions, or concerns feel free to pose them.

They can be;

Car
Truck (Diesel or gas)
Motorcycle
ATV
Boat
Aircraft
Generators

Pretty much anything with an engine, I will be happy to assist. If I have no experience in an area, I will say so.    

Otherwise, shoot...

Hi. Epic posts here. Are you available to check one (maybe more if its a lemon) cars with me? Im looking at some slightly older nissan patrol 4x4's but i have little car knowledge. i would be willing to tip/pay. There are two im interested in and both are near Quito. Thanks in advance. Ill check on here regular for contact etc

Zantonsus,

I would be glad to help, let me know what year range you are looking for/at. That way I can research the year and model to identify any TSBs (Technical Service Bulletin) or recall data.

The first step and sometimes the hardest, is to determine what issues the model of car has. Failure rates, recalls, safety issues etc. It is worth the time and effort, it has saved many folks from buying a potential lemon/money pit.

Let me know the year/s, and I will get started. It should only take a couple of days to gather the information we need then we can start kicking tires.

Well   Ive always loved the Nissan Patrol and i only have a budget of around 14k +- 2k so i realised i would not be able to get much for my money. The ones that are for sale and im looking at are a 91 3 door model and a 93 4 door model.

Im not sure if its exactly right but when i try and work out what i want/need i either end up needing a budget of 60k or just laugh out loud at myself. I have a young family so safety is important, we like exploring off road, we like long drives but split them up a lot. Obviously like to be prepared for both zombie apocalypse and end of the world generally Have a slight Hero complex so the idea of saving a (small) busload of people from imminent danger with the winch whilst blinding them with the lights is actually prob more important to me than say, engine condition I need you!

I would also like to pimp it up a little with a few totally unneeded extras like a snorkel for when i fall in the sea etc if you can do this i would be up for that too. Im about to take a mini trip to Murica for a feew days so could pick up parts? maybe? i have no clue

I have had epic bad luck historically speaking so would be very happy to aquire your assistance x

I also plan to be active on the forum and not just dissapear after help x

Z,

Vehicle prices can be daunting here. I totally understand the impulse to "Pimp" out a vehicle. If you were to ask my wife, she would tell you I have a problem keeping my hands off things. I have an unnatural compulsion to know how, and why everything works.  In school algebra killed me, I had to know "Why"....

Which is why I have come to have far to many expensive hobbies. One of the worst, was as I was building custom Harleys in So. Cal. I had bought a brand new FXDWG, and it lasted 7 days, which happened to be the break in period before I had it in pieces in the driveway. Making it better and faster. 

Being retired Military I am admittingly, a closet "Preper". As such I often get "The Look" from the wife, as I excitedly explain why we need this or that. She is a good sport and knows that each piece of new "Gear" will result in a training lesson for the family. One can never have too much stuff! Parting with said "Stuff", was the hardest part of leaving the U.S. Especially my beloved truck, a 2004 Dodge quad cab, 4x4 with a 5.7 liter Hemi V-8. It had it all. Looked better than new, an engine management system, Banks Turbo, "Big" everything, and snap your head back torque. She was a beast and ready for anything. 

As far as parts goes, you have to be careful sometimes bolt on parts are not quite as bolt on as they say. Shiny, pretty things always prompt people to overlook performance and reliability. As hard as it can be, a good split of the two works best.

I have thought of starting a custom shop here, but the logistics would be horrible. Even though you see cars and trucks with "Performance" stickers all over them, I have yet to find one slightly better than bone stock. I miss the resonation of a deep breathing V-8, or the whine of a super charger...

Ok, back to reality.    Enjoy your trip and I will do some research. Shoot me a PM when you get back and we can go from there.

I recently assisted a fellow Expat who was in the market for a used 4x4. He found a vehicle near Quito and intends to use it in and around the Qualiquisa area, which is mainly jungle.

It was an interesting situation as the truck was licensed on the coast and did not require emissions. Having said that one would think that to register in another city/area you would need emissions. We will see, also there are maximum height limits for trucks.

The truck is a 91 Nissan Patrol, for an older truck it was in fair condition and had some modifications for off road use done. The downside was that over the years and various upgrades, the wiring was a mess and required a solid week of work to sort out and repair the numerous damaged or faulty connections. The engine side is now 98% complete, which leaves the rest of the truck.

Next will come the fine tooth comb inspection, and maintenance of the drive train. This is the most critical part of a 4x4 as a weakness in the drive train will leave you high and dry when you least expect it.

Under normal circumstances I would have not recommended the purchase of this truck, but as the new owner wanted to learn and requested that I do the work I agreed. Electrical work is very tedious and time consuming, but I new what to expect and enjoy the work.

Since the purchase a mechanical issue has come to light, not a big shock but an issue none the less. The point is, a thorough inspection of a potential vehicle is paramount. Even as described above, issues can still pop up. The key is to eliminate as many problems as possible from the start. So checking out a vehicle has got to be your first priority.

Many people get excited by all the shiny bobbles and pretty paint, this is okay but, you must be sure there is a good measure of reliability as well. Otherwise you will be left with a pretty, shiny shop queen. As hard as it may be you cannot let aesthetics override function. Never underestimate the costs of repairs or over estimate your own capabilities, especially in a place such as Ecuador where parts and supplies can be hard to come by.

This Weekend's Car-Buyers Questions:

This week's topic .. new car buyers.

1.  In Ecuador, when if ever would it ever be advisable to have a mechanic or expert inspect a new, never-used car that an Expat is considering buying at a dealership?

2.  In the same scenario, what protections would the new-car buyer have if the car turned out to be a lemon?

3.  Besides a cédula or passport, a drivers license and any paperwork the dealership would provide, what if any documents would a new-car buyer need in order to complete a cash purchase and legally drive the car off the lot?

cccmedia in Quito

Reply to Question #1

When buying ANY vehicle, the buyer needs to check out the car. Simply because the car is new, does not mean it cannot be without issues. Let's face it, "Stuff Happens" even to new cars.

With a new car you should not need to take it to a mechanic as you would with a used car. However, having a knowledgeable car person with you is always a plus. You have to remember that once you roll off the lot if any issues occur the dealer will play the "Who Dunnit" game with you. If they can assert you caused said damage etc. they will not fix it. Extended warranties are pushed hard and "Sound" like a great idea. As much as it sucks, you must read every word and all the fine print. You will find the bumper to bumper coverage has limits and provisions, even costs to you for some work. Never assume "Warranty Work" means free...

Lemon laws, as far as I can find do not apply here. One reason is the VIN, Vehicle Identification Number. This is a number assigned by the manufacturer. The VIN can provide various information and has several uses; A VIN is assigned to every car manufactured for sale in the U.S. It is the identification number for the car as a unit. It will be displayed in various locations on the body and frame of the car. You will see it in the drivers side windshield on a plate, stamped on the frame under the hood, and on a sticker inside the drivers door.

The VIN will give various information; the year of build, where it was built, paint colors, trim, engine size, and other options. The VIN can also be used to order parts, and to track the vehicle history. Each time an insurance claim is filed against your VIN it goes into a data base, this will establish a record of accidents etc. Also you can use VIN tracking programs to see other resale history information.

Unfortunately, many cars found here will not have a VIN. This means you are at the mercy of the seller. There are things you can do to mitigate the risks and future issues. Research the model to determine any problems, as well as the safety record. Find out how popular the car is where you live, the most popular cars are the ones that get stolen the most, this is for various reasons. A car that is seldom seen may be difficult to get parts and service for.

Reply to Question #2

So what happens if you wind up with a "Lemon"? The dealer will automatically hand you the keys to a new car... They have criteria that legally allows them to push the issue to your breaking point. The car has to be in the shop for a certain period of time over 30 days, it can be repaired by the dealer several times etc. In short, it's a nightmare. This is where researching the model even new will help. One good tip is not to buy a brand new model year of the first run. "What did he say"????

Okay, most cars are improvements of a basic model, the first run. Over the years more options are added, the body style may change, paint colors etc. As the model gets older it generally gets better. Generally. A brand new model of the first run has no history. It's brand new off the drawing board. No offense to all you Engineers, but as  Technician I cannot count the number of times a new design came out, and as great as it looked on paper it was a train wreck when it came to making it work. Every new "Thing" has bugs in it at first. So if you just have to have the newest thing, give it a year or two to get the kinks worked out at someone else's expense.

A used car, is a "What you see is what you get" proposition. Typically any used car even in the U.S. has NO implied or offered warranty. If it explodes five seconds off the lot, sorry about that!! The seller will do NADA. For this reason alone you should have a car guy on speed dial.

NOTE: "Car Guys" are not perfect... We also make mistakes and have limitations. Without the proper tools and time it is not possible to check every detail of a vehicle. The plain truth. However, we all have a certain list of things that we look for based on experience and history of the vehicle model.

The worst mistake I see folks make is they get too excited at the idea of the new car. New is relative to the person, it may be simply new to you, not new off the lot. They see the pretty paint, the cool stereo etc. Without a reliable engine/drive train all you have is an extension of your living room. This is another good idea to have a "Car Guy" with you. They can reign you back to reality and help you make a better decision. In the end, it is your money. Just don't be offended when you hear the, "I tried to tell you".

I will have to dig out the papers to be specific, but the owner/transfer papers you get will cover you for 30 days. By then you must register the car in your name. Yes, there are hoops. Welcome to Ecuador. One thing of note is that the insurance (SOAT) is bought by the year and is paid with your registration, what a good idea !? 

Owning and operating a motor vehicle in EC is not an easy thing, with the correct knowledge and preparation it can be accomplished.

CONTINUED ON NEXT POST...   

CONTINUED.

My Brother in law recently bought a  new Sonata, it is a nice car with all the bells and whistles and at a decent price 36K.

It is a true "Hybrid", it has a gas engine and a 50 Kilowatt power cell which can power the car at highway speeds for over 20 miles. Very cool    Recognizing that gleam in my eye he swiftly locked the doors before I could reach for my tools. Yes, my name is Jim and I am an addict...  I have a need to understand how things work. I will bide my time, get a few beers in him and go to work.....

Cars are a compilation of many complex systems, these systems must all work in harmony. A good mechanic will have a solid background in the older systems as well as the latest and greatest.

So how do you know if you have a real live "Car" guy?    One simple test is to ask him to explain the basic theory of an internal combustion engine. If he says "Suck, Bang, Blow", you know you have an old school "Gear Head". Induction, compression, combustion, and exhaust, works also. Once you get him talking his eyes will light up and he will speak in tongues.     A true "Wrench" loves to talk cars. He will insist on "Popping" the hood and pointing out all the little gizmos, which will be accompanied by a detailed explanation that you may or may not understand a word of.

The point is, he clearly has a good deal of knowledge rolling around upstairs. This is what you want, this kind of guy will dig around like a badger.

With a new vehicle (as in out of the show room) the dealer will take care of the registration within 30 days.  The transfer papers will allow you to drive the vehicle (scooter, motorcycle, car etc)  However, the owner is responsible for obtaining license plates.

If you sell your vehicle, the new owner is responsible for registering the vehicle in his/her name.  Again the buyer has 30 days to do this.  The seller would do well to check on that on the ANT site to make sure that it is done to avoid any blow back in case of an accident, tickets etc.  The license plate stays with the vehicle and is linked to the listed owner.

If you buy a used vehicle, there are several preliminary steps (not including all that GMC has written) you should do.  Check to see that it has been registered and all the fees paid.  You can do that on the ANT site using the license number of the vehicle.  Using the cedula number of the present owner, check to see if there are any unpaid moving/parking violations that are unpaid and attached to the vehicle.  Here in Cuenca the vehicle must be re-registered each year after it is inspected.  The owner is given a paper stating that the vehicle was registered on, eg, 31/08/2015...so all is paid up, including fines as of 30/08/2015.  That has to be carried with the registration card while driving the vehicle.  (To re-register the vehicle, the vehicle must have passed inspection - so you get to carry all those papers from the inspection with you when you register the vehicle.)

Again, at least in Cuenca, before you can register the vehicle you have to go to CuencaAire to have a tech get the numbers of the vehicle they need.  they use carbon paper, rub over the numbers and tape it on you vehicle papers. They are called inpromtas or inpromtas...

I have no idea if you have to have the vehicle inspected or buy SPATT  before registering the vehicle.

If the vehicle doesn't have a license plate, or one that was created somewhere, the license plate number is on the registration card - called the matricula.  However, if you want a license plate - cops like seeing them and it cuts down on explaining why you don't - it is a whole other set of hoops including a denuncia at the fiscalia stating that the licence plate was stolen...a three notice in a local newspaper, and then taking the denuncia and the newspaper back to ANT where they will issue you a license number (not always the plate) and to register the vehicle with the new license number.  ANT is supposed to change the number in the computer.  Doesn't always happen, so keep checking until they do or when you pay the registration fee it will be with the old plate number and completely useless.  After a while you get to know the people in the office, get invited to their homes...it can be frustrating.  But that is why lost plates are replaced with artesanal plates. without the ANT sticker - which cops don't like.

While a pain to register, inspections etc are relatively easy and just involve money and time.

quito0819,
That sounds about like what it takes here in Quito as well. We were told the paper you need to show all fines are paid takes three days to get, but we got it no problem in a day. I can't remember what the form was called.

As a note, if the previous owner has a fine that is not paid, he must clear it before you can go any further according to info here. Also when you run the previous owners cedula you will see every ticket he has gotten. So much for privacy...

Same here as far as the inspections go, it moves along pretty good. Don't forget to have your emergency kit with you. Fire extinguisher, first aid kit, reflective triangle. Kywi has it all in a bag. Other than that it is your standard paperwork drill.

GMC(SW) wrote:

quito0819,
As a note, if the previous owner has a fine that is not paid, he must clear it before you can go any further according to info here. Also when you run the previous owners cedula you will see every ticket he has gotten. So much for privacy...

My fear would be that if the seller has the buyer's money and then the buyer finds out that there are fines/surcharges...well, might not have a happy ending for the buyer...

Having purchased 2 used cars here, you can purchase it and protect yourself from having your money taken and not getting the car or being stuck with the previous owners fines or getting a stolen car or parts of a stolen car (motor, tranny)……and the people here understand the process well, it is just different and more complicated than in the USSA……
As Senor GMC has said, be careful with what you purchase…….the bigger issue is to check out the car well and make sure there are no mechanical problems you are not prepared to deal with……
More so, since you cannot rely on the odometer here since they are readily lowered, even the electronic ones.
It is simply a process, a process used by Ecuador for many years…….not good, not bad, simply different…….and we need to adapt to their process……
Vaya con Dios y viva Christo Rey