EXPAT CAR MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR (QUITO)

GMC(SW) wrote:

Reply to Question #2

So what happens if you wind up with a "Lemon"? The dealer will automatically hand you the keys to a new car.

Huh?!

Is there a word missing from this citation?

quito0819

The key is you must run the sellers cedula, before the transaction... You never hand over a cent until you are as sure as possible that things are above board.

cccmedia,

Thanks again, I can always count on you to point out irregularities. Yes, I missed a word. 

The dealer will NOT hand you the keys to a new car. Is what I mean to say.

Sorry folks.. 

Used Four Wheel Drives

Recently I have been assisting a fellow Expat who bought a used 4x4. People buy a 4x4 for various reasons; just in case I need it, or for off road use.  I have owned many 4x4s and as a rule I drove them as if I had stolen them. A 4x4 is made for other than normal use, but when you use it for serious off road use it accelerates wear and tear considerably.

Unfortunately many used 4x4s have been "rode hard, and out away wet". They have been used and abused, modified etc. The problem is that if a regular system of maintenance and repair is not instituted they become worn and unreliable.

So here's the scenario; 1991 Nissan Patrol 4x4. The engine will crank/ turn over but will not run. The fuel gauge says there is a 3/4 tank of gas. There are three things needed for an engine to run; Fuel, Air, and Spark.

OK, you need to understand that you need to follow the procedure/steps as given.. A WARNING, is a risk of potential personal injury, a CAUTION, is a potential risk of equipment damage.

Step #1
With the emergency/parking brake on/set, and the transmission in neutral, open the hood. "WARNING" NO SMOKING. Keep hands and tools clear of moving engine parts. No loose clothing should be worn.

Step #2
"WARNING", Remove key from ignition and put in "Your" pocket.
From the passenger side of the vehicle, remove the wing nuts and remove the air cleaner cover.

Step #3
From the passenger side, lean over engine and look into carburetor. There will be a round opening, one side will have a plate in it. The plate should be open or vertical. If plate is horizontal or closed, push manual choke "In" to open it. Plate should now be vertical, if not, open by hand. It should remain open, in the vertical position. 

If the plate was closed, and is now open try to start engine. If engine runs, it was not getting air, and there may be an issue with the manual choke. If engine runs, stop here.There are also four to five vacuum hoses connected to the carburetor. Ensure all connections are attached at both ends. This may require the removal of the air cleaner assembly. If not running continue to step #4.

Step #4
"WARNING", Remove key from ignition and put in "Your" pocket. Bend over the engine and listen, while an assistant pumps the accelerator/gas pedal two to three times, . You should hear fuel being sprayed into the carburetor. Did you hear the spraying sound? YES/NO.

From this we know that fuel is in the carburetor, and the fuel pump should be working and the fuel filter is not clogged. If you hear no spraying of fuel, stop here.... If you do, continue to step #5.

Continued on next post....

Used Four Wheel Drives. Continued.

Step #5
We have air and fuel, spark is next. "WARNING" No smoking and wear no loose clothing. "CAUTION" Keep hands and tools clear of moving engine parts.

At the front of the engine you will see the distributor, a round black cap, that will have seven (7) wires coming from the top. The center wire goes to the ignition coil, this is where the starting voltage is converted from 12VDC to 20K (20,000) volts or higher. Ensure the center wire is securely attached at both ends.
The other six wires go to each spark plug in the engine. Ensure each wire is securely attached at both ends. If any wires were not attached, reattach and Try to start engine. If engine starts, stop here. If not go on to Step #6.

Step #6
"WARNING" No smoking and wear no loose clothing. "CAUTION" Keep hands and tools clear of moving engine parts.

There are several ways to test the spark, having an older vehicle with no ECM, Electronic Control Module, we will use an "Old School" method.
The spark plugs are numbered 1-6, from front to rear of the engine. #1 is the first, or closest to the front near the distributor. Remove the spark plug wire from the #1 spark plug. Pull wire from the boot at the end as far down as possible, use pliers if needed. "Do Not" pull from plug wire.

Step #7
"WARNING" No smoking and wear no loose clothing. "CAUTION" Keep hands and tools clear of moving engine parts.

With the end of the spark plug wire in hand, place a "Phillips" screwdriver (that's the one with the + at the end) into the plug wire. It should fit snug and not be forced into plug wire boot. Insert until it stops. The screwdriver should not fall out when the wire is held up.

The voltage through the wire needs to go to a ground to make the spark. We will use then engine as the ground. Pick a spot on the engine that has no paint, and is within reach of the plug wire. You will hold the screwdriver approximately 1/8" to 1/4" of an inch from the bare metal of the engine. Hold the screwdriver by the insulated handle....

"WARNING, CAUTION, PAY ATTENTION"

With the parking brake on, and the transmission in neutral. Have an assistant turn the ignition key as if to start the engine. "DO NOT" pump the gas pedal. Hold the key to the start position for no more than 10 seconds at a time.

As the engine is turning over, you are looking for a spark between the screwdriver and the bare metal. You may need to adjust the distance to get a spark, you should see a fat blue spark.

If you have a spark stop here. Reattach plug wire to plug, push plug boot until you hear it "Click" onto the spark plug. Remove any tools or loose items from engine compartment. Attempt to start engine. If engine starts, stop here. Reinstall air cleaner, close hood and take for test drive. If no start, we will move on to another procedure.