Best place to live in Ecuador...

Nards Barley wrote:

I guess that rules Ecuachick54 out from getting a job with International Living?

She is honest, not married, and lives in the wrong city.  Never had a chance.

mugtech,

Perspective. Sure...horrid experience (I know Ecuachick - great lady!).  Crime waves happen.  This was an organized band that terrorized the area for a while. Doesn't happen every week...month...year.  Note 2010. However, counter-balancing that, on a per capita basis, only Guayaquil and Quito have as high a crime rate as the city of Esmeraldas, which is the capitol of Esmeraldas Province, of which we speak.  In fact, for violent crime, Esmeraldas ranks second per capita only to Guayaquil.  Then again, counter-balancing that further, the Correa Administration has prompted the significant beefing up of police in that region, both quantitatively and in terms of qualitative training/expectations.  So...the region is getting safer every day.  It is a trend that I believe will continue.  Lastly, most "experts" generally do mention the regional crime rate.  Some wait for the question to be asked.  Always ask...then ask... then ask again.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Nards,

LOL.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Hi! We have been living in Bahia de Caraquez on the coast for a little over two years now....love it for the mild weather year around. We lived in Cotacachi (in the Andes/Sierra) for 6 months before that and found it too cold for us...just our opinion. For investment purposes, the north coast, from Manta north, is showing a great ROI especially on the purchase of condos.

Dear M&MJ

My wife and I and our 17 year old son are also planning on moving to the coast in Ecuador, possibly as early as fall 2013. We too are young retirees (in our forties)and we live in live in Red Deer, Alberta. We would ove to meet fellow Canadians for friendship. We also love to cook and entertain. We have some great friends who live in Montreal!

Have you found a place in Ecuador? We are seriously looking at the Los Olas development 6 km from Bahia. WE would rent in Bahia until our house has been ocnstructed.

Norbert & Glenys

I was just reading an article about the high risk of catastrophic earthquakes on the coast as compared to Cuenca.  Any thoughts about that?  I was all set to give up my thoughts of retiring in Cuenca over a coastal city but after reading that I am having second thoughts!

There are eartquakes ActionMgt, but in the northern coast.
From the northern province of Esmeraldas all the way down to southern Manabi earthquakes are felt here and there. In fact the beach town of Bahia de Caraquez, in Manabi province, was heavily damaged by a 7.1 earthquake in August 4th, 1998.
The most recents ones reported in the northern coast were registered in June 26th, 2012, only 4.5 and 5.1 in the Ritcher scale near Jipijapa, 53 km west of the beach town of Puerto Lopez (Manabi province). Tremors felt as far as 20 km into the southern province of Santa Elena, no damages reported.

I was checking into vilcabamba, Has anyone been there? It looks beautiful! Out of the way definitely!

roo2rio,

Vilcabamba is beautiful.  Closest larger city is Loja, which has a rich history in music, religion and education.  Vilcabamba, proper, as of today, is somewhat plagued by relatively high property prices, as demand in the last 5 years has significantly outstripped supplies.  Current real estate pricing does not seem long-term sustainable.  Also, the region is one of the few in Ecuador where a somewhat uneasy tension has developed between the local citizen population and the expat community.  The reasons for this are somewhat varied and go beyond the scope of this forum.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

"Here come the Griswolds" as someone posted the other day on another post!  Americans can be such assholes!  We find this gorgeous place that is like Heaven personified with lovely people and certain of us Americans have to go in there and ruin it!  Makes me embarrassed and sick that by the time I can afford to move there the American Gringos may have worn out our welcome!

or I should say "certain American Gringos"!

As with anything, you need to see Vilcabamba for yourself. But, I would say I really dislike Vilcabamba, for many of the Reason Hector mentioned, but for others too. In Vilcabamba, it seems the large number of foreigners has imposed a shift from the typical Ecuadorian culture that is quite noticeable to me and seems... well, for want of a better description: like a disturbed offspring from the wedding of both the foreign and Ecuadorian cultures. I live in Loja and occasional go with the family I live with just for a Sunday drive and maybe pick up an ice cream cone in Vilcabamba's main square. But, neither the Ecuadorian family or I would ever consider living there. Malacatos, on the other hand (just 15 minutes away) is completely different and mostly Ecuadorian. I like Malacatos a lot, but it too is more expensive than Loja. Vilcabamba's and Malacatos' weather is very similar.

The main draw for Vilcabamba is the weather. It arguably may be the best weather in Ecuador. But, Loja's weather is good and the city is more to my liking. However, you won't find a lot of expats here and will need to have at least minimal skills in Spanish to integrate comfortably with Loja's population. In my view, the best "small" town in Ecuador is Zaruma.  Note: that is Zaruma, nor Zamora; the two are easily confused.

I just looked at Malacatos today - I read about it online this morning and wanted to check it out.  It reminds me a lot of Vilcabamba.  The only reason I am shying away from Loja, which would probably suit us better, is the weather.  They say the average daily temp is 63 degrees, which is too cold for me, as I currently live in southern Florida.  Do they have many furnished rentals in Malacatos???  Is the weather that cool in Loja?  No matter where in the world I search online, I keep ending up in Ecuador.  I hope it is still affordable in another year or two when we are ready to move down there!

Many things in the world are changing quite rapidly. Because you are looking at a year or two more before moving, I would hesitate to say anything about conditions, weather, or costs at this moment. Two years from now, the situation might be very different. However, that said, I would say that just about any city in Ecuador will have the fundamental things you need to live there and certainly the appropriate housing. If I recall from your other postings, you will have sufficient money to live a comfortable life based on todays costs.

Be careful when looking at weather statistics on the Internet for cities in Ecuador. The data is sometimes taken quite far from the stated target. In other words, weather information is often very unreliable.

I am used to hot Florida weather, and find Loja weather to be very pleasant. Most of the time, I just need a long-sleeve shirt, but there are a number of "short-sleeve" days too. For a total of about three months of the year (random days, not one solid block), it is a bit cold -- in the fifties, for example. But, homes usually stay warm because the walls are solid, even the interior ones. They absorb and hold the heat from the day. If you go out on those days, you just need a moderate coat suitable for 50 degree weather. However, if you do need constant warmth, then Vilcabamba is a good choice. It has a beautiful gated community if you have money saved to buy a nice house. If not, you can try Malacatos, but it is also expensive, although not as much as Vilcabamba. And, the weather is not quite as nice, but pretty nice.

It might be very helpful to just plan a vacation here to see, in person, the various cities that interest you. I understand that Taca airlines has flights from Miami to Guayaquil in the 500 dollar range flying out of Miami (two-hour stopover in San Salvador). That is a really great price and access to Miami is not that hard or expensive for you. Travel between cities in Ecuador is very affordable by bus. I think you would enjoy it, and it would make the answers you are seeking alive with possibilities.

Joseph K, thank you so much for your kind personal response.  I agree with you, things will not necessarily be the same in one to two years when we are ready to relocate.  But I found the perfect city for us in Florida (Cape Coral) by researching online for a year or two and hope to do the same for Ecuador.  Much as we like the sound of Vilcabamba, I am also very drawn to the sea, as we both love the beach and palm trees and also both love seafood, especially lobster.  That is why we moved to Florida.  Perhaps we would be happier on the coast, but I can't find the town that appeals to me.  We are most comfortable between 74 and 84 degrees, and if I could find that temperature year round I would be in Heaven!  We also have two little long haired Chihuahuas who are like our babies that will be coming along with us.  Do you know if they are allowed on buses and taxis?  Right now we take them everywhere we go!  Our income would be $2250 or so per month between us.  I don't like Miami,but I do like a smaller town about 20 minutes from a larger town.  I grew up 20 minutes outside NYC, now spend my summers 20 min outside Cleveland, OH and lived in Ft Lauderdale for many years which is 20 min outside Miami... so I seem to gravitate to suburbs of larger cities.  Any ideas?  We are simple in our tastes- don't go out a lot, like to shop for finds, eat mostly organic, like to eat out, and like to take day trips in our car.  Other than that we are pretty much homebodies.
Any places you think we should explore???

No worries ActionMgt, there are many more good gringos than not so good here in Ecuador. They are just too busy having a great time, no time to spend on animosity. The Ecuadorians are becoming talented at sparing the good ones. You will be just fine!

Joseph K: you are a wealth of information! well done, keep it up, your experience sharing and kindness are outstanding.

Your reply was very interesting because, as I was writing, I kept thinking that the coast might be a pretty good choice for you, but couldn't remember your income, which you had stated in a post some time ago. The coast is a little more expensive, but you have a more than adequate income to have a really nice place. I can see you being very happy there.

I have heard many nice things about Salinas; the family I live with loves it there. But, since I have been no nearer the coast then Guayaquil, I really have no personal experience to share. You might want to go through some of the old posts; there is quite a bit about about the coastal towns and what they are like.

Action Mgt,

From what you describe, the most likely towns that make sense for you - and they are as different as night and day - are Salinas or Crucita.  Salinas is already a mid-sized town, with its own regional mall, for example, which lies approx. 2 hours away, down a beautifully maintained four-lane road, from Guayaquil, the commercial capitol of Ecuador.  Guayaquil is a city about the size of Chicago, from a population perspective.  You are not 20 minutes away, but then again, Salinas is the premiere resort locale and has its own energy, separate from a really big city.

Crucita is a smaller town, but within 25 minutes of the city of Manta, with a metro-wide population of about 400,000.  Crucita is a sleepy hamlet, with some infrastructure issues, but nonetheless a certain "acquired charm" as well.  Manta has a bit of a port city/industrial feel and serves as the likely "Tuna Capitol of the World".  Still, parts of Manta include attractive beaches and a more resort setting feel.  A real mixed bag.

Both Salinas and Crucita reside oceanfront and generally meet your temperature requirements.

As a final note - and I will be blunt - you may have found that special place in Florida (Cape Coral) via the InterNet, but the only thing you are going to find researching Ecuador via the InterNet is heartache.  The amount of misleading data, much of it from my own industry (real estate) is appalling.  If you can't visit yourself and place boots on the ground, consider staying in Cape Coral.  Nice place...I know it well.  Ecuador must be explored in person.  The InterNet just does not do it justice.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

It would seem to me, if our pal Loving Spoonful Ecuador chose La Libertad, on the coat of Ecuador, then that is the place to be.

La Libertad is certainly an option, but it is hard to explore Salinas and not find La Libertad...you drive through one to get to the other.  So, just figured anyone exploring Salinas would, likewise, explore La LIbertad.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Thanks for all of your tips, everybody, and I definitely agree with and welcome all of your comments!  I will surely look up the cities you mentioned!  Although we would love to make a trip down there to check things out in person, that is going to have to wait until we are able to save up some more money.  That is why we can't even think about moving for at least another year.  We have several "irons in the fire" which could substantially add to our savings and we just have to wait and see how everything plays out first.  I don't want to go down there without a cushion!  It does help to narrow it down though because when I go down there I don't want to go flying around to this place and that like a crazy woman trying to find a place that we like in just a week or two.  My other thought was to just rent for 3 to 6 months in a city like Cuenca and take trips to the coast to find out what cities "speak to us", as they say.  If that be the case, would we be better off settling temporarily in Cuenca or Loja?  I am afraid of Guayaquil because of the crime.  Any thoughts from any of you???  Two more questions, if you don't mind... do people take dogs with them on taxi's and buses or are they not allowed?  And how expensive is it to get a car down there - either to take our 2013 Prius with us or buy a reliable older car down there?  Thanks again, everyone - you are a great help!!!

Loving Ecuador - I was so glad to hear that!  I was hoping that was the case!

ActionMgt,

Loja and Cuenca...wow, what a difference!  Literally, in my opinion, Loja is the most quintessentially Ecuadorian city, which while not unfriendly, tends to hold Expats at arm's length.  Cuenca is "lil' USA", with the highest per capita Gringo population in all of Ecuador.  A city which has not only opened its doors to the Expat community, but seems almost run by that Expat community. Night and day.  What is your preference?  Immerse yourself in a local population, with limited English spoken, for a genuine Ecuadorian experience?  Then select Loja.  If you want a place readily USA-recognizable, where many speak English and there is a flourishing Expat community, then select Cuenca.  Loja is cheaper, but if you were buying, those numbers would be more significant.  For renting, Loja is still cheaper, but the margins drop dramatically.  Cuenca is a relatively cheap place to rent, but a relatively expensive place to buy.

Dogs...cats...chickens...pretty much anything is allowed on the buses here.  Cabs...it is all up to the cab driver.  However, one or two lap dogs...likely going to get approval from a majority of the taxi cab contingent.

Car decision...if your car is less than a year old at the time of moving and you are already in possession of your permanent residency, then ship the car.  Otherwise, sell it there and by something here.  That's my 2 cents.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Thanks, Hector - that makes a lot of sense.  I think initially, Cuenca would probably suit our comfort zone better, until we can speak Spanish more fluently!  Is it hard to get to Salinas from Cuenca?  What about rental cars?  Would that be cheaper than hiring a taxi to take us out looking around????  Or can you hire a private driver for the day???  This may all seem trivial, since we aren't moving for awhile, but I like to get all my ducks in a row and know pretty much what I am doing before I do it!  That way when I dream about going there I can do it with more accuracy... I do believe in the Law of Attraction, and the more detailed you can get in your dreams the more likely they will come true!  LOL

ActionMgt.,

Actually, easier to get to Salinas from Cuenca than Loja.  Fly to Guayaquil, Drive 2 hours, or drive from Cuenca.  A local private driver is my preferred option.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Perfect!  Thanks so much!

Sell the car, taxes and duties will offset any savings you may have at the moment. Purchasing is roughly 20-40% more then in the states. I believe that after one year you'll need to change your license over to an Ecuadorian version which poses another set of paperwork issues. Most folks use public transportation. Buses are very good although a little at times uncomfortable. Most trips are very long to excruciatingly long. Even a little eye opening!
Taxi's and rail service are good as well and most times fairly cheap.
As for all your list of other questions and some of the good answers you've received, I nor anyone else can really assess your needs particularly your income and finances. Only you and your spouse know what it is you're after and can or can not afford. Some of what has been recommended is good while others based on my visits throughout Ecuador makes me scratch my head so???? Keep in mind real estate is like beauty and both are in the eyes of the beholders so discount recommendations accordingly.
In the end you may suffer from as we say in the medical profession that the patient suffers from paralysis due to over analysis.
Buy your tickets, fly in and play Marco Polo.
As to which airport to arrive into, throw a dart and go from there, be it North or south or any version thereof.
You can simplify the whole issue!! Get yourself an Ecuadorian hubby entitling you to an entire household of duty free materials including your vehicle.
Sound enticing? Just some traveling humor.
One thing is certain, this ain't Kansas Toto.

Good luck

Probably smarter to sell the car, taxes and duties will offset any savings you may have at the moment from the Prius overall efficiency. Purchasing another on this end is roughly 20-40% more then in the states. I believe that after one year you'll need to change your license over to an Ecuadorian version which poses another set of paperwork issues. Most folks use public transportation. Buses are very good although a little at times uncomfortable. Most trips are very long to excruciatingly long. Even a little eye opening!
Taxi's and rail service are good as well and most times fairly cheap.
As for your list of other questions and,  some of the good answers you've received, I nor anyone else can really assess your needs particularly your income and finances. Only you and your spouse know what it is you'd prefer and realistically can afford. Some of what has been recommended is good while others based on my visits throughout Ecuador makes me scratch my head so???? Keep in mind real estate is like beauty and both are in the eyes of the beholder so if I were you I'd use the 60% rule of hearing things and discount those recommendations accordingly.
In the end you may suffer from as we say in the medical profession paralysis from over analysis.
Buy your tickets, fly in and play Marco Polo or Harrison Ford and explore the adventures.
As to which airport to arrive into, throw a dart and go from there, be it North or south or any version thereof.
You can simplify the whole issue!! Get yourself an Ecuadorian hubby entitling you to an entire household of duty free materials including your vehicle.
Sound enticing? Just some traveling humor.
One thing is certain, this ain't Kansas Toto.

Good luck

Manabi Coast hands down,

which of the tributes she has eliminates her from the INt Liv employment. Wrong city? Her honesty?
Can't wait for your answer although I'm guessing In know.

tfpob wrote:

which of the tributes she has eliminates her from the INt Liv employment. Wrong city? Her honesty?
Can't wait for your answer although I'm guessing In know.

Honesty killed her chances immediately, the others are just quirks IL avoids.

LOL!!!

The administrator of my building says his favorite coastal town is Olon, which is a small fishing village.

While there is no Wikipedia page, I did find, not surprisingly, a blog written by some Americans who live there.

http://leighfrost-olon.blogspot.com/

Olon is a beautiful place.  Has the "party town" of Montañita within 5 minutes...restaurants...bars...surf shops...nightclubs and plenty of hotels.  Just doesn't seem to meet the convenience aspect of the person making the inquiry.  Not always easy to get around that area without a car, unless you are already standing in the town of Montañita, proper, where there is always a line of taxis.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

HGQ2112 wrote:

ActionMgt,

Cuenca is "lil' USA", with the highest per capita Gringo population in all of Ecuador.  A city which has not only opened its doors to the Expat community, but seems almost run by that Expat community. Night and day.  What is your preference?  Immerse yourself in a local population, with limited English spoken, for a genuine Ecuadorian experience?...If you want a place readily USA-recognizable, where many speak English and there is a flourishing Expat community, then select Cuenca.

I'm not sure what Cuenca you are talking about.  Where is the one that" but seems almost run by that Expat community. Night and day."  The expat commuity is ±0.01% of the population and widely diverse in points of view.  It runs nothing, but does offer a haven to those trying to find themselves in Cuenca.  If anyone comes here believing that Cuenca is just another small town USA with English spoken, that person is in for a rude surprise. 

The choice to immerse oneself depends on the person and that person's ability to speak Spanish.  Like anywhere else in Ecuador, Cuenca offers a genuine Ecuadorian experience.

Personally, try a lot of places until you find the place that says home to you.

quito0819,

Have you been watching the Cuenca evolution?  Try Googling for various recent events in that city and activities referencing that municipality.  See what issues are being publicly discussed and what is driving those discussions.  Just a little occasional reading between the lines, not much - it is politics, after all.  Then you have a local expat newsletter/website, which shall remain nameless, which is being cited as reflective of "experiences" in that city, from precisely that small minority you cite.  Ironic, no? Look, I am not sure what you read into what I wrote.  It was neither intended as a positive or negative connotation item, just a realistic observation.  On the one hand, it is good to see a local government responsive to its citizens, nationals or expats.  On the other hand, catering to any small segment of the populace has to be addressed carefully, or eventually the majority starts to wince.  How "small" that minority is has never dictated the influence that can be wielded.  Historical examples are so replete, as to be too numerous to mention.  Do you realize what percentage of global wealth rests in the hands of a tiny minority?  Do you realize how relatively small the population of Great Britain was at the zenith of the British Empire?  I just don't know what citing the small minority data intended to accomplish.  My observations stand on their merits.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Hi Don
Just looking for a little more detail about the amount of sun that areas in Ecuador gets.
Cuenca is the sunniest? Is that two hours a day or ten or somewhere in between. Sunshine is pretty important to me. I have also heard that pollution in Cuenca is pretty bad but no one really states what pretty bad is. Maybe we could do a scale  1. being the rain forest and 10. being New York or LA
I also read that cold showers are the norm, true or not?
Thank you for any info I am looking forward to my move.

Cuenca is very green, which means that Cuenca has rain.  I don't find it bad but some find the rain intolerable.  It tends to rain more in the evening.

In the historic center pollution can be bad due to the buses.  However, the municipal government is about to construct a tram (like Denver) and there is a new bus terminal which will limit the number of buses.  I may go, on average, about once a week to the historic center.  Others may be better at the 1 to 10 scale.  Outside of the historic center pollution is limited.  The municipal government has a vehicle inspection station (which, unfortunately) does not include trucks and buses - and if it does...that would raise another set of questions.

Cold showers:  at least in the mountains most homes/apts have hot water.  Not sure where you got that from.  Can't speak for the coast.

atruetalltail.wordpress.com Is where they repeatedly stated "cold showers".
So if I do not own a car is Cuenca walking distance from many apts.
I can only do about a mile at a time right now. Working on improvement.

atruetalltail.wordpress.com is from what century?  Gas powered hot water heaters are pretty popular here.  I've been in Ecuador since 2006 (mountains) and have not met anybody who took cold showers.  Maybe on the coast it is common.  Somebody from there can answer that.

You can get apts (have to do a lot of walking etc) near the centro. There are places to stay (like Hotel Otorongo) which is near the Centro and will allow you to look around for a place to rent.  Furnished will cost more than unfurnished.  I have nothing to do with real estate so I can't be of much help to you there.