Best place to live in Ecuador...

Beth, the only problem I have with showers in Ecuador is inconsistent water pressure resulting in fluctuating temps from cold to scalding. You quickly learn to constantly adjust the mix. Like many things in Ecuador, you learn to adapt (or complain on this site).

atruetalltail...... is not a good blog. I think she would make a good book writer but her posts are tediously long. I love to read and did not read one of her posts all the way through.
So when people say walkable they mean if you can walk long distances? A couple miles?
I need a large amount of sun and a small town feel. I think Cuenca has a bigger city feel but I certainly do not know that for sure. Is it one big center area or are there smaller areas with a coffee shop, grocer, fresh markets etc?

Well is that situation with showers true of everywhere in Ecuador?

Cuenca has around 500,000 people (including outlying areas) You really have to come and see.  If a lot of sun all the time is what you crave, then you might see the coastal communities like Salinas... People from the coast can help you there.

BethAnn,

Let me sum up the water pressure, water temperature, general shower issue succinctly - it varies throughout Ecuador, even, sometimes within the same locale, contingent upon the degree of upgrade to the condo, house, hotel...etc., you may be staying in at the time.  Respectfully, anyone trying to comfort you with a more generalized or definitive response is doing a disservice, no matter how kind the intent.  You have to explore, case-by-case, individually.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Beth, in Cuenca a mile gets you to a lot of places.

Thank you

Just found this forum and have been looking back over the past year comments.  Why does everyone ask about the best place to live in Ecuador?  One post said it best...Ecuador is the best place!
Your best place in Ecuador is a matter of your desires and needs.  Others will tell you of their best place to live based on theirs.  My wife and I spent six months traveling in Ecuador and have not examined the north coast, the Amazon or even the far south coast.
First decide on the type of climate you want and the type of landscape you want.  Ecuador has it all.  While in Cuenca, we experienced hail.  Totally unexpected at the equator. 
South coast is arid during much of the year but the rainy season brought heavy downfalls, road flooding and huge amounts of mosquitos.
Mid coast has enough rain to keep everything green much of the year but it is more humid when temperatures rise.
Cooler temperatures in the mountains and more rain.  Also more landslides with the rain.  At night, it can be below 50 F.  Have been in Quito when the day time temps hovered around 50F.  Also, altitude can present other problems, being more stressful for those not acclimated to it.
Do you want mountain scenery?  You can find towns with great views from 5000 ft to 10000 ft.
Do you want water views? Ocean, lake or rivers?
You decide.
Crime is endemic, but mostly petty crime.  Exceptions are home invasions, cab kidnappings, drug related crime.
Military presence is muted.  In Salinas there is a large military base and you do see them about but mostly on leave and unarmed.  They are armed on the base and on beach patrol, some can be.  But most of the armed security is private.  All banks and most stores have armed security, especially in the larger cities.  Armored cars are often accompanied by several vehicles filled with heavily armed guards.
Again, we did not visit the north coast, the Amazon or the far south coast, so I will leave that to others.
My best advice is to visit and spend several months exploring to determine what you need.  If it is not for you, you have at least had a grand adventure.

docputter,

Mostly, I want to commend you on a very well-thought out and expressed piece.  You are quite correct.  Most "best place" responses are very subjective, based on an individual's particular lifestyle.  Only a "boots on the ground" visit can really give a sense for how an area suits a specific individual.  Even more challenging, I would argue that anything less than 3 days/2 nights in a particular locale doesn't even provide the most rudimentary "flavor" for a region, which means folks either need more time on the ground than they think, or need to reduce the number of areas covered.  I can't tell you the number of inquiries I receive where someone is planning on covering like 8 cities/regions in 14 days...including travel time in between them. Just not realistic, from my point of view.  You might as well save the money, stay home and watch the 100s of You Tube videos about Ecuador.  So, while I can understand the "human impulse" to ask for advice, it is important, as you did, to remind folks of just how likely subjective (and individually unsuited) that response might be.  Closing on that note, I do have to point out one statement of yours:

"South coast is arid during much of the year but the rainy season brought heavy downfalls, road flooding and huge amounts of mosquitos."

Subjectivity can impact us all, I being no exception, but I live on the southern coast of Ecuador...full-time...year round...no exceptions.  I did not "live through" what you just described above.  None of it.  The heavy downpours...the flooding and the huge quantity of mosquitoes.  I did live through the occasional night-time rains, the typical handful of mosquitoes (actually, quite subdued for a country thought of as "tropical") and one day, a combination of heavy wave action, coupled with high winds (more so than the rain), led to some minor flooding of the boardwalk.  So, just wanted to offer another perspective on that and would be curious as to where you were, more specifically, when you witnessed this?

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Absolutely DocPutter. In my experience living here for a couple of years now I can relate your assessments.
The street floodings are being taken care of as there is the ministry of public works is investing in the expansion of the sewage system, especially here in the southern coast. There is a coordinated effort between the local authorities and the goverment to improve the condition of the streets during the rain season as it coincides with the tourism season.
It is best for people to visit every area before taking a decision as temperature and scenery changes dramatically in only a few hours drive.
Mosquitoes are a problem with the first rains in december through March only. Just as you say, it stays outright arid here in the Salinas area.

Loving Ecuador,

Hey you guys, where are you seeing "the flooding" in La Libertad and, I don't mean to sound like a complete "moron", but how are you defining "flooding"?

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

I may have to post this in its own thread, but since this thread has the attention of the two guys I want to talk to, here it goes; the question is about Salinas. I am cosidering moving there. I love Loja, especially the family I live with. But health problems (the body challenged in making red blood cells), seems to makie living at high altitudes more than I handle.

Here are the questions I hope either Hector, or living in Ecuador can answer.

1. What would a two- bedroom apartment cost (to purchase):
     A. With a beach view
     B. Within two miles of the beach, or reasonable walking distance.
     C. Approximate monthly building fees

2. Are there public busses in the city. I love the bus system here and in Cuenca?

3. Are the American trained doctors (for want of a better descripton) in Salinas? I do need a reasonably savvy doctor.

Thanks in advance.

Joseph,

1.  Not that simple.  May even seem contradictory.  First, not that many true 2 bedroom units in Salinas.  Most are built by one lone developer, with the odd smattering of the occasional rare 2 bedroom. Not prolific.  However, of the ones that do exist, prices can be all over the map, depending on the quality of building, condition of the unit and whether you have a dead on ocean view or partial.  For the top end, I would say $120-$130,000.  For a rehab project, in an older building, $75,000, but have sold a handful for under $70,000.  Something which either lacks the building or the condition, but not both, probably will run you between $85,000 - $100,000.
2. Buses = big time "yes"!
3. Good doctors and medical facilities associated with Clinica Baste, Clinica Granados and Clinica Panchana.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Hello Beth, look, simply put this isn't the US and I for one am getting tired of a group of elderly usually well past 50 folks who came down here with rose colored glasses after reading IL reviews believing it as gospel and now continually gripe and gauge their comments against what they left behind in whatever country they came from. I'd wager the biggest gripers are the Americans. Undoubtedly these are the same folks back home who gripe about immigrants who after 3-5 years i America still don't speak or read basic English. Ask any of the gripers regardless of their time in Ecuador if they can speak any level of Spanish? If what they left behind is what they want then ADIOS comes to mind. If not as we were told during my time in the Core adapt, use what you have and MAKE the most of it.SURVIVE! STAY ALIVE! BLEND IN!
I feel like I'm still married with all these negatives and comparisons. Those folks don't live here nor does that philosophy so prevalent back home her eitehr. Just try it for 3-6 months, get it's routines down, buses, cabs, masses, parks, non ex pats and most importantly an honest assessment of the people and your fit. Then stay or go elsewhere.
Like I said in another e mail to you walking for a mile in Cuenca gets you to roughly 50-60% of el centro. take a cab home for a buck, 2 at the most.
Most importantly, remember these bloggers with one or 2 exceptions aren't who I'd want testifying for me at my trial in any court. Scary comments from many of them, with their bias attitudes. None of the grippers will admit it but their homesick for the country they all found so disdaining and needing to get away from.

Keep an open mind and you'll enjoy your stay here.
Best

Very well said!  And I'm just one of those Americans who is thinking about moving there.  But I want to make sure first, before I go, that it at least sounds like I will be able to adapt to your country.  Then I will make an extended trip there to be sure before taking the final leap.  I used to be an Army wife in Germany in the 1960's and lived off base on the German economy in a $25 a month apt.  I know how you have to adapt, learn at least the basics of the language, and make some sacrifices in another country.  But I also know how the charms of that country usually make up for any minor inconveniences that we have at home that don't have over there.  So I think I have the right mindset, at least, to keep researching Ecuador as a possible retirement spot for my husband and I.  I hope you all agree with me!

Cuenca, Loja & Villacamba are your 1st, 2nd & 3rd choices to open your vetting. or explorations Up north poses some border issue with the Colombian rebels although that is minimal right now.
Hope you find what ever it is you deserve. Sometimes you don't get what you want but you seem to always get what you need.
Like you I also lived on a base although at E 7 or Gunny level my income which still did not make me rich did just did giver me enough for my weekend folleys.
Best

OK 1st you can do really well on a beach side condo with view & 2 bdrs and baths fully furnished for $90-130k
A few blocks of walking to the beach will get thatt down to $75000-90000 usually with some type of pool.
Doctors are all well trained and bilingual. Buses run the same as in Cuenca and Quito.

Downside is the heat, crowds and BUGS with mosquitoes capable of flying away with your poodles.

HGQ2112 wrote:

Joseph,
Not that simple.
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Not much is, but you did a great job breaking things down into salient points, as you normally do.

As a general observation, my story is an interesting one. I came here really focused on the Andes, and did not even consider or visit the coastal region. Now, approaching two years, things have changed and I now am thinking differently. This illustrates how useful it is to consider living in a place for a while before making an big investment in that area. Some will know right away if a place is perfect for them. If you don't get that feeling, be patient. Renting here is affordable and can save you from making a mistake.

tfpob wrote:

Downside is the heat, crowds and BUGS with mosquitoes capable of flying away with your poodles.

LOL, glad I don't have a poodle. Your information was very useful and balanced well with what Hector explained.

A comment about your comment to Beth. I agree with the sentiment you express. It is troubling how little North Americans really grasp what it means to live in another country. But, that often is the result of very limited international experience. And, of course, the unwillingness of those profiting from expats to be more frank. I think you will notice that those who have lived abroad do not come with their eyes so full of glitter.

So, I wish to add this comment to yours. If you are thinking of living in Ecuador and have no international living experience, visit Ecuador first. And, as Hector has suggested, don't hop from one place to another. Spend a while in one place. It does not matter where because you are really just testing your reaction to an environment that is unfamiliar to you. Pick the place you think might be for you and spend time looking for the things you need to be happy. Don't focus on just finding that perfect property or apartment. Focus on the smaller things. If you like what you see, you can always find the physical home that matches your needs. Homes and apartments are one of the really good values here.

ActionMgt wrote:

So I think I have the right mindset, at least, to keep researching Ecuador as a possible retirement spot for my husband and I.  I hope you all agree with me!

I agree.

I have read some of the comments about my previous post and stand by my advice.  Visit the country and spend some time there.  My first trip to Ecuador was a "flying" visit of one week to explore the coast.  My first impression of Salinas was not good.  reminding me of some of the rowdy spots on the Jersey shore.  After a month in Salinas, I found the food marvelous, the locals friendly, the beaches gorgeous and the mosquitos numerous.  I don't always follow the tried and true but rather the "road less traveled".  There are many dirt roads throughout Ecuador and when the rains came, many were unpassable without (or even with) a 4 wheel drive.  So, no, the main roads are OK during the rains, unless you are where the mountains fall on the roads because of the heavy rains.  This is not an issue on the coast. 
I spent six months exploring the coast and the Andes and still will not give you advice on where to live.  If you have a specific spot, I can give my impressions but they are mine and may not suit you.
It is a beautiful country and deserves a look.  Investigate, spend a year there and then decide if it suits you.

@Hector: There were no floodings per se, just very muddy roads due to the lack of sewage in the past. That is what has been fixed in the last year or so.
@ Joseph:
1- Condos here tend to have 3 bed/ 2 baths. Prices depend on whether they are newly built turn key or fixer uppers. New ones start are 110K-150K with oceanviews,10-15 minutes drive from shops, restaurants and entertainment places.
2- Bus services are provided by private cooperatives just like in Cuenca. They run every 3-5 min here. Bus tickets are US$ 0.25 cvs.
3- There are seven private and public medical facilities in only seven blocks radius around the only one mall in La Libertad. In a wider range, there are about three more, and the largest best State hospital in town is the Liborio Panchana. The best medical facility in Salinas is the military clinic.
I will have to get back to you on bilingual ones. I know the director of the Baste Clinic in La Libertad, is fully bilingual and received education in US. I am not sure how many more bilingual MDs are.
PM if you need further info. I can refer you to a healthcare specialist who knows the bilingual MDs affiliated with a medical insurance with local coverage.

@tfpob: "Downside is the heat, crowds and BUGS with mosquitoes capable of flying away with your poodles"
Where the heck were you staying when you visited here! jeez! LOL

Loving Ecuador wrote:

@ Joseph:
1- Condos here tend to have 3 bed/ 2 baths... Etc..

Thanks, this information is both thorough and helpful. With this and information provided by others, I have a clear picture. The third bedroom is a bonus, but I am confident it can occasionaly be filled by welcomed visitors.

Dear forum contributors,

I believe it would be helpful if somebody could please compare Bahia and Salinas in terms of cost of living.

Joseph K wrote:

The third bedroom is a bonus, but I am confident it can occasionaly be filled by welcomed visitors.

I know where I will be staying if I visit Salinas.

Nards Barley wrote:

I know where I will be staying if I visit Salinas.

Well, there you go. See how simple life is.

This thread brings back memories from last year. We are constant travelers but my wife balked at Ecuador. "The articles say Horrid roads, armed police everywhere, too hot weather SMAKES, lecherous men~!~!~"

I insisted. We flew down with her hissing. I rented a car, we drove through the country...everywhere. Often without reservations. One month. We returned 3 weeks later and ran out our visa (another 2 months) in Cuenca..rented car throughout. (My wife ADORES the place and cannot wait to get back!)

We have never been to a country which is so poorly described by those who should know better. It is enough for one to suspect that we are being subjected to western propaganda outside.

In a nutshell, tell your wife to junk the articles she is reading. They are hogwash. The armed police turn out to be store security guards...who will most often help you to your car with the groceries. The new network of highways are simply wondrous, better than most we have seen anywhere else outside of Germany or Switzerland. 

My wife is a looker..and draws wolf whistles in most places. But Ecuador is too polite and frankly the Ecuadorian women are lovely and their standard dress precludes competition from expats. Most men are petit. Your wife probably towers over them. (Mine does.)

Cuenca is very special. It resembles nothing so much as a French town in Provence or La Garde except larger and cleaner. Surprisingly the food ranks with anything we have dined on in France. The infra-services are better.

I imagine there is some places to be cautious. Like all experienced travelers, we keep out eyes open. But we have had no hint of danger as yet in any place or any time of day or night.

But there is no way to convey to you the great mood one finds in Ecuador. It is like the 1960s again! Full of hope. None of the whining and fear one finds now everywhere in the Western world.

Am interested to know about the cost of rentals. Are furnished one BR apartments available? I really am attracted to living at the coast. Bahia sounds quite nice from what I have read on these sites

Hello Sue, We are from Seattle WA and now live here in Bahia, Ecuador. We always suggest you come down and check out the Coast and see what you like.  There are many options and nice small towns along the Coast.  We selected a warmer climate, with trees and good growing soils here in the north Central Coast.  Very similar soil wise to Oregon here.  Rainy, but nice and warm.  Sunny a lot of the time.  We are refugees from the cold and constant rain in Seattle.  Cold winters and from the rat race, traffic etc.  Peaceful,  no stress,  laid back place here.  5 minutes to anywhere in town.  Yet we have all we need here. Looked at whole Coast from Salinas to Rio Verde and this was our choice.  Small yet has all we need here. Great friendly people here! Let me know Sue if we can help in any other way.  Enjoy learning and your adventure!  Ecuador is calm and relaxing! 
As far as rentals they go for 1 bedroom here from $250 downtown with no view to $500 with an Ocean View furnished.  You may have to supplement the furnishings somewhat.  They don't always have everything you are used to. Sue if you would like to know more feel free to send me a private message by clicking on my name and I'll gladly help you if I can.
  Living It and Loving It here in Bahia , Ecuador,    Charlie

So we are wondering about any towns/cities in the 4000 to 6000 foot level or so in Ecuador.  Cities mentioned like Cuenca sound very nice but seem to resemble a much larger version of say San Cristobal de las casas in Chiapas, MX and equally cool for our blood.  We don't need the coast and our version of a year round spring climate is closer to 80 degrees F than 60 F.  And yet we would want amenities, go figure.  Appreciate any thoughts out there.  We are birders who will travel within the wide climatic zones of this fascinating country but don't care to settle where it is so cool.

Ensatina,

Truthfully, you are not finding 80º weather in the sierras of Ecuador.  You are going to need to change a variable, or be very disappointed.  Just being candid.

Hector G. Quintana
RDRHGQ@gmail.com

Gracias Hector,
That is exactly the feedback I am seeking.  No doubt obvious that I have not researched much at all re Ecuador whereas I know a bit re Costa Rica and Mexico, so I do appreciate your input.  We just saw a House Hunters International (I know how bogus that can be with looking at 3 places to choose from in hardly more days than that - not how we operate but we enjoy picking up some info w/o leaving home) and saw one on Cuenca. Lovely looking city if a bit large for us but the downside is we need more warmth.  We will visit one day soon to go birding and hope to hit many of the life zones there to get a better sense of temps at what altitudes, etc.  Like other old farts I know our thermostats seemed to have gone a bit awry and very hot and humid is no better than too darn cool.  I grew up in Portland, OR so don't need a return to the eternal cool spring but rather a warmer spot.  Anyway, thanks again and I will keep reading and hopefully learning more and we can get down there one of these years.  BTW I would choose Mexico for the culture, natural beauty, friendly people, FOOD, etc., etc. but there is just too much violence for us.  CR is much safer but aside of the wonderful wildlife reserves is oh so bland.  I sense Ecuador is a bit more colorful for lack of better word than CR.

Ensatina:
I think you will find that temperatures will be quite suitable in one part or another of Ecuador for you.  You have the right idea on exploring the various altitudes to determine the best place to be.  I also qualify as an OF and really enjoy the warmer temps on the coast.  Most of the Andes are too cool for me also, in general.  Temp at night is brisk and is OK but those days when the thermometer barely creeps up from the bottom leave me cold :-).  Your ideas are good and you should be able to find your ideal habitat.  Good luck.

Ensatina wrote:

BTW I would choose Mexico for the culture, natural beauty, friendly people, FOOD, etc., etc. but there is just too much violence for us.

We too are OFs, presently living in the Portland Metro area ourselves, and it sounds like your quest is much like ours at present.

If Mexico is your first choice, I wouldn't just write it off as "too violent". That's like writing off the entire US because your home country's newspaper only features the things that happen in Chicago.

I would never make my home in any of the border cities (on either side of the border), but that leaves an entire country to explore. If I were you, I'd lurk on some Mexico expat forums. Your question of security and safety has already been answered there, many times over, so you won't even have to ask it.

As always, there will be differing opinions, but the thing that has struck me about reading the Mexico forums is how HAPPY so many of the expats are there, and how safe they feel. Many of them have just stopped returning to the US, even for a visit, because they cannot bear to leave Mexico.

The thing that has me looking at other Latin American countries at present is that I fear we won't be able to afford Mexico when the time comes for us to pack our bags. The recent visa changes (Feb of this year) mean that I'm not sure we'd even qualify on our SS income any longer, depending on which version of the requirements one believes.

PM me if you want a little more info on climates in Mexico, which I have researched extensively.

Hey,

I've spent over 25 years in Portland all tolled and I am not a big fan of months and months of drizzle and gray skies either.

Although the precipitation stats suggest that "la sierra de ecuador" and "the people's republic of portland" have about the same inches of rainfall each year, I suspect that the moisture comes down much faster but less frequently in the mountains of ecuador.

That makes a lot of difference to me.

   Carlos

PS  Although I haven't yet been to Ecuador, someone pointed out Zaruma as having weather in the 80's.  It's about half way from Machala on the coast to Loja in the mountains and is a small beautiful historically significant city.  It's probably a wee too quiet for "el lobo loco" moi, but it looks REALLY nice.  It's apparently being touted as a World Heritage Site candidate by Ecuador for its period architecture and mining history.

Oooo. Has anyone here been to Zaruma? I would like humidity info for it.

The closest I can get online is Tumbes, Peru, almost 90 miles away, and on the coast. In other words: I can't get any humidity info for Zaruma, Ecuador.

If I remember correctly from your previous posts, you clearly understand that one has to visit here to really experience what it is like. You probably also know that any weather information you glean from the Internet should be held suspect. That being said, I will start by confessing that Zaruma is my favorite city in Ecuador. It is very small, but inexpensive, friendly, and very safe. The mother of the family I live with is from Zaruma, and the family and I spend a lot of time visiting her family there.

The weather is like it is in Loja, about the same humidity, but warmer. Unfortunately, humidity is a problem everywhere in Ecuador. But, Zaruma is not one of the really bad offenders. Arguably, Vilcabamba has the best weather in Ecuador, but Zaruma is the most definitely the happiest place. However, it's small size, limited shopping, and lack of English speakers will be a deterrent for many. You can also investigate Malacatos, which is only 15 minutes from Vilcabamba, but again, few, if any, English speakers. And also, much more expensive than Zaruma. Alas, there is no perfect place. But, as a world destination, Ecuador is the best I could find.

Indeed if one studies these forums for most countries one will find all kinds of people who believe they have just fallen into a heaven beyond their wildest dreams.  As well as folks who bitch and moan b/c the locals just don't speak English for some reason or use the same brand of toilet or toilet paper as they are used. I was in Patzcuaro a nice large village in Michoacan the day the narcos shot up the police station a couple of miles away along with shooting a few unlucky cops who were on the road elsewhere in the state.  Prior to that we were there when those clowns through the grenades into the main plaza in Morelia the state capital during the nighttime independence celebration.  Makes a real mess it does.  Last time I went down I was anticipating outings with the local biologists at the university in Morelia (beautiful city and U) but they no longer feel safe taking their students into the countryside - seems the village we had gone to the year before was were the narcos - let's see was it La Familia or Los Zetas - had dumped the 7 bodies of the federal police they had tortured before killing them, only one female cop among them this time.  So we don't go to that area any more.  Mexico is a wonderful place but the violence which affects the people living there and I don't mean ex-pats who are very rarely affected is a bit devastating.  Many places in Mexico are quite safe for us folks but then there are the people you might want to meet there as well when not shopping at Wal Mart or Costco.  Sorry to go on like this, it is a sore point with me.

Sounds like some very interesting places to see, thanks for the tip.

Joseph, you make very valid points in everything else, but let me clarify that humidity is only up in the Salinas/ La Libertad area during the rain season, Dec though March. The rest of the year it is outright arid.

Of course you are correct Loving Ecuador; I should have been more specific. Every part of Ecuador has it's rainy season and higher humidity levels, and its non-rainy season, with much less humidity. The balance and length of each varies across Ecuador, making some places much more desirable than others if you are very concerned about humidity.

We have had really horrid weather in Loja this year (very unusual) and I, for the first time, found mold growing where I would rather it didn't. I think this was on my mind when I said what I did. Thank you for correcting my comments.