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I want to live in the mountain area of Panama

Last activity 14 September 2012 by CMichael

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greatwhite777

Hi,
I just retired on about 1300 a month.I want to live in the mountain area of Panama.Im looking for a nice 1 bedroom 1 bath apartment.Also will I need transportation? I have been trying to find out about Boquete.I hear its really beautiful and not to hot.I live on the Oregon coast and do not like hot weather.I also do not like big cities.Any sugestions? Thinking about a move in the late fall.

Annemichelle

Hi Boquete is great but might be too expensive for you. You may get lucky but if not,  Try Portorillos or Volcan. It is nice to have your own transportation in the mountains although there are buses that are very affordable and run frequently, just not as convenient.
Taxis are not too bad. A taxi from Boquete to David is $15 each way
Anne Michelle

Warthogg

Anne Michelle (anyone), I'm also looking for a place in the higher elevations.  What do you think of El Valle ?? 

"Try Portorillos or Volcan."

I'll check out these two suggestions and thanks.


Tom

Flavioapanama

greatwhite777 wrote:

Hi,
I just retired on about 1300 a month.I want to live in the mountain area of Panama.Im looking for a nice 1 bedroom 1 bath apartment.Also will I need transportation? I have been trying to find out about Boquete.I hear its really beautiful and not to hot.I live on the Oregon coast and do not like hot weather.I also do not like big cities.Any sugestions? Thinking about a move in the late fall.


1300 is a little tight but if you find accomodation in Boquete all other expense are similar in all chiriqui. Boquete and Potrerillos is easier for transport to David compare to Volcan. Can find a cheap car in Panama.
Flavio

greatwhite777

Thanks to everyone that replied to my post.I am retired now but cann't move until my lease is up in November.I want to live in the mountains.Have very good ref.Im looking for 1 bedroom 1 bath anywhere in the mountains where it is cool.I won't have a car to start.If someone has a apt come open please let me know.I will be a great renter.I don't smoke or drink.I do like to fish.

Leslippe

Hi,
I've heard from friends who lived in Panama that Volcan is the place for me... sounds like heaven! I'm looking for either a small place or a large one to share.
Also, my Spanish is in the embryonic stage... how big a handicap is this?
I'm new to this site but so far everyone has been wonderful... thanks!
Leslippe

jeffreyb

I'm a 63 year old retired teacher, and anticipate a retirement income of approx. $1800 monthly.I am happily single. My question is: "is it realistic to live on that income in a more rural area?  I have no desire to live in or near a big city."

Annemichelle

You can live easily on $1800 a month in the mountains of Panama. Do you have any ideas that sound good or would you like some suggestions. Tell me your interests and maybe I can help direct you to an area.

Warthogg

Annemichelle wrote:

You can live easily on $1800 a month in the mountains of Panama. Do you have any ideas that sound good or would you like some suggestions.


Anne Michelle, I would certainly appreciate some suggestions re living in the mountains.


Tom

oldsalt_1942

I have an income of $1,200/month and live quite comfortably here in Potrerillos Arriba. $1,800 would be fantastic. If your income is on the low side there are ways to make it fit. First of all, I've been house-sitting here. I pay for the electricity, about $20/month; internet, $45.45/month; television, $32.49/month and a maid $10 a week for half a day plus cooking gas and which is only about $2/month but I'm not sure since I've only gotten one big tank. So, you see it's coasting me about $140/month for my housing. I could do without the television, but since it's not MY choice there's nothing I can do about it. The owners of the house are here for six months and in the States six months. This is my second hitch. When the owners are here I lived in the small town of Boqueron but that's down on the flat and a lot hotter than here. I pay $200/month there for a fully-furnished one-bedroom house that had been newly renovated.

Transportation: Cars and gas are expensive here! I don't have one and depend exclusively on the bus system. Of course things take longer when you're depending on buses, but hey! You're retired, what else have you got to do? But here's something you need to know.  The buses up to Boquete SUCK big time. I rode up there on one last Friday. The ARE old U.S. school buses. NO A/C, hard bench seats. The buses nearly everywhere else are nearly new, very clean Toyotas Fairly comfortable seating and air conditioned. I will NEVER, EVER, ride the bus to Boquete or anywhere north of the Boquete/Potrerillos "Y" again. EVER!!! Besides, there's absolutely nothing in Boquete that I can't live without. And personally there's just too many damned gringos there to suit me.

Annemichelle

Tom,
Please tell me something about yourself so I can make appropriate suggestions

pitxi

Hello everyone, i am a single mom of 2 living in Costa Rica but thinking of moving to Panama. Life here in CR is very expensive and salaries are very low.

Could i live on $2000 a month in Panama City?? The reason why i choose the city is because i need to work. How easy is to get a job without being a resident??

Has anybody got any suggestions for other good areas where i can work?? What about Bocas del Toro?? I grew up on the coast and studied Marine Biology.

Thanks and any suggestions will be great

Have a wonderful day!!!!

Raquel

oldsalt_1942

Unless you are actually a resident, not a pensionado, you are not permitted to work in Panama, There are a few exceptions to the rule but it's very difficult, nay, nearly impossible, to qualify for one. Not only that you wouldn't want to work for what most Panamanians get paid and it sure isn't going to come close to $2K a month.

pitxi

Hi Oldsalt, thanks for your reply. I have an income of $2000 but with 2 kids i obviously need to work. How difficult it is to live on my income? Are the expats more generous?? haha

I heard you just pay $800 for the residency which seems to cheap, is really that easy??

oldsalt_1942

Here's what you need to know about obtaining a pensionado visa.

http://panamalawyerservices.wordpress.com/

Whether this is suitable for you I have no idea, but it would definitely cost more than $800. If you have any questions ask Lizi. She's the lawyer who handled my Pensionado and I recommend her highly. She'll give you the straight scoop on what you need to know, and she speaks flawless English. When I got my Pensionado in May of 2009 it cost me a hair over a grand.

pitxi

Who said life is easy...Very much appreciated Oldsalt :)

holadebeto

Hello folks, I'm new to this forum (the only forum cause it seems like a good one)

For you folks that are considering moving to the mountains in Panama, I think you should know that there are so many more options in the mountains besides the "common" foreign settlements.

Golden advice that I found out the long way - - live here in Panama for awhile so as to explore places before you pinpoint a location. I don't have anything personally against El Volcan, El Valle, Boquete, etc., it's just that each have their own personality and you might just not like it.  I personally wasn't that comfortable in those places, but like I said it is a personal choice and you may love it, but I believe you would be very wise to take your time and explore this great country. Whether you can adjust to fit the community is important and if you feel uncomfortable living in a place, you shouldn't be there, right?

We ended up buying 3600 m2 at about the 1000 foot level and it is always cool enough at night to sleep with a sheet on in the summer and only occasionally in the mornings in the winter (now) do we need to put a sweater on, but it will come off around 9 or so. When I was younger, I loved the heat, worked in it and thrived in it. Now that I am in my 70's and active (so-so), the heat just drags me down, and because I love to work in the garden, the sea level places didn't cut it. Further up and it would be too cool for me. Ouch, arthritis. Don't forget you'll be getting old here?

I think one of the things to do for research before you come down is research the negative things - cause almost everyone talks about the positive things and you won't lack for that kind of info, especially from the real estate and tourist operators.

Crime is everywhere, but the further you go away from the prime settlement areas, the less crime there will be. If you live around other rich folks, that in itself is an attraction for crime. Fighting that trend is futile, as the newspapers have documented for many years. So may be you might want to live a little more remote?

Some of you ask whether you can live comfortably here on figures between $1000 and $1500. Well,you can rent houses here for $50/month w/o inside toilet and minimal electric. We lived in one for two years and enjoyed it, sort of, and if you can deal with that, you'll be able to live for about $200/month with food, electricity. Houses with inside plumbing/toilet, ceilings and tile floor will be $200+ (Remember this is not the city or suburbs). We just completed our small 1 bedroom house and now have all the normal amenities and are living on about $500 a month and we live pretty good, have 1M internet, SkyTv, and go to town about twice a month.

I think the key to your success hinges on one important thing - that you speak Spanish. You'll pay less (sometimes), connect with your community, enjoying conversation with them as the moon comes up, and getting all the local news, as well as eliminating the inherent barriers between you and your neighbors.

Every village and city in Panama is unique. They do have personalities, and with your Spanish, you might go into a village and just sit down in the parque and start by initiating a conversation with one (or more) of the local folks, ask questions about them, what they do, about the  village, etc.  Have them take you around (most folks will) to see the possible rental houses, have lunch with them if possible, and don't offer anything (it's rude and you'll get your chance if you move in) Of course, if they did work for you or whatever just stick the money into their hand without comment.

The adventure the lifestyle here is unique and if you enjoy it, then don't wait for them to come to you - go for it.

That was the definition of rambling, eh?

Bob

oldsalt_1942

Pretty good advice, Bob. I think so many of the failures here are from people who have bought into that whole International Living propaganda that Panama's a wonderland where all your troubles will disappear. I lucked out with a house-sitting gig when I first came down (after several exploratory visits throughout a great deal of the country). Though my ability to get out and about was constrained by a 60 lb. shit machine (the resident dog that needs to be fed daily) I had the opportunity to evaluate places I would and wouldn't like to live. Personally I like being NEAR David with its conveniences of banks, good shopping and medical facilities, there are definitely places in Chiriqui that don't appeal to me...Boquete (too damned many gringos who don't speak the language and clique together), Volcan (quickly becoming Boquete-ized) and then some places that are just too inconvenient for what I'm looking for.

I've made arrangements (after the middle of November) to rent a very comfortable furnished house in Boqueron for the next three years. I spent five months there last year. Rent is $175/month and take care of the small yard. I love my neighbors there, only one of whom speaks English. I've found that if a Panamanian speaks English they don't want to talk to you in Spanish. They want to use their English. I sometimes have to fight with them telling them I already know how to speak English, I need to learn to speak Spanish better. It would be kind of funny to an eavesdropper because they'd often hear the Panamanian speaking English and the Gringo answering in Spanish.

Hanging out at the local parque is good advice. Every small town has one. It's a great place to meet people and make friends with the locals. Another good place to go is to the local Info Plaza. Nearly every town has one of those where people go to connect to the Internet. Many Panamanians can't afford to have their own computer but they have the burning desire to connect with the outside world via the Internet so nearly everyone has an email address and the kids have a Facebook page and they play games.

It used to cost 35 cents an hour when I was in Boqueron, depending on which girl was on duty. It it was Nancy it was 35 cents an hour and she kept track, but hey, a buck five for three hours is STILL a bargain by anybody's standards. If Karina was in charge it simply cost 35 cents even if I stayed for the whole day, and if she only wanted to charge me that much no matter how long I stayed hooked up to their wi-fi who am I to argue. Now, however, I understand it's totally free. President Martinelli is doing everything he can to get the country logged in and there are free public wi-fi hot spots springing up everywhere.

On thing that amazes me about Panama, and I was talking about this with another gringo yesterday, is how the public transportation system here puts just about anywhere in the States to shame. This is often though of as a third-world country but you can get to almost every foot of it on cheap public transportation. Taxis are ubiquitous and there are very few of what could be called "chicken" buses here as there are throughout Central America.

Now, this ISN'T paradise by a long shot, but for me it's probably as close as I'll find. But it's NOT for everybody. A lot of people I know back in the States say they'd like to try doing what we are but I tell them "you couldn't do it." They don't have what it takes. That spirit of adventure. The ability to accept that hey, today the water's not working or it's the fourth time today that the electricity has gone off for no apparent reason and just shrug it off with the attitude of "that's just the way things are around here" and not let it upset you.

I should say, too, that while it's not my style there's nothing inherently wrong with choosing a place like Boquete to retire to. The gringos there, though they tend to clicque up are enjoying themselves and if their entire social life revolves around and is dependent on others like themselves that doesn't make them bad people...just people I don't want to spend much time with. But that's just me...and I suspect Bob and I know there are others like us out there, too.

Another thing. When I use the word "Gringo" what I mean by that is someone whose native tongue isn't Spanish.

holadebeto

oldsalt, you are funny. 60lb shit machine. jajajajaja

Your definition of the word Gringo or gringo is the same as mine and of all my neighbors here. Actually, It seems to be their nickname for any non-latino extranero. I know a Canadian guy in Las Tablas that took a whole bunch of people to task at a bar because they called him a Gringo, but to them that includes all those folks that come down here from up there. I call him Gringo now :) He still don't seem to care for it, but he's learnin. There's two kinds of gringos, bad Gringos and good Gringos. They are not all the same Gringo here in Panama. And then there's folks like Hugo Chavez where all Gringos are the devil. :)

My wife and I came here pretty ignorant - we were in the first stages of learning Spanish, and still thought Panama would have Mexican food. :) I was in the Navy and spent lots of time in villages in the Philippines, Guam, etc., which gave me some knowledge, but we still needed to learn a lot.

For better or for worse, we wanted to immerse ourselves into Panamanian culture. Of course, we have found that it is impossible. We will always be outsiders, but we are happily cohabitating with 11 small families in a small village in the mountains working together (juntas) harvesting rice and corn, throwing an annual Christmas Party for the kids. We are the richest ones here in terms of money, which makes it uncomfortable at times, but we share stuff and now after 4 years we are really comfortable here.

I agree with you on Boquete and Volcan and those other cliquish areas. I've sometimes wondered why those folks don't live in Florida - they speak English there(I've heard) and the prices are about the same for houses, cars, etc., right? Everyone is different, and I guess that's a really good thing.

The network of busitas here is amazing. If one breaks down, there will be others there to help, transfer passengers, etc. They are always on time here. Actually, there is no bus to where we are, but then 4wd can't get up the hill many times either - we have to walk sometimes and then wait at the quebrada when it overruns the bridge. We have to go down the hill to get a bus - about 2km. If a bus can go somewhere, it will be there. Once you get to know the bus drivers, you can get their cell number and they'll make special trips for you or wait for you if you are not too late. One empty one was going by on the last return run of the day, and I flagged him over and he turned around and took me close to home, and didn't want to charge me! I bring customers down for him sometimes, which is not out of my way or inconvenient.

Really nice folks, here in Panama.

xpatcindy

Hi Bob, I am new to this site. I have been researching for a month or so to see if Panama is a good fit for my husband and I. We are in our 60's and in good health. We would not be doing a move till next fall or so, but I wanted to get all the information I could. Your post was so helpful, moreso than any other site. We want to explore in the beginning but hope to settle in the mountains around Santa Fe or thereabouts. We want to get away from city stuff and traffic etc. Love the idea of possible gardening and mixing with the locals to learn their rich culture and ways. Simplicity sounds good to us, not only because of inexpense, but for the fact 'stuff' is not as important to our way of thinking. Your life sounds good and I hope to follow your blog. If I get lost please find me. :) Thanks! cindy

holadebeto wrote:

Hello folks, I'm new to this forum (the only forum cause it seems like a good one)

For you folks that are considering moving to the mountains in Panama, I think you should know that there are so many more options in the mountains besides the "common" foreign settlements.

Golden advice that I found out the long way - - live here in Panama for awhile so as to explore places before you pinpoint a location. I don't have anything personally against El Volcan, El Valle, Boquete, etc., it's just that each have their own personality and you might just not like it.  I personally wasn't that comfortable in those places, but like I said it is a personal choice and you may love it, but I believe you would be very wise to take your time and explore this great country. Whether you can adjust to fit the community is important and if you feel uncomfortable living in a place, you shouldn't be there, right?

We ended up buying 3600 m2 at about the 1000 foot level and it is always cool enough at night to sleep with a sheet on in the summer and only occasionally in the mornings in the winter (now) do we need to put a sweater on, but it will come off around 9 or so. When I was younger, I loved the heat, worked in it and thrived in it. Now that I am in my 70's and active (so-so), the heat just drags me down, and because I love to work in the garden, the sea level places didn't cut it. Further up and it would be too cool for me. Ouch, arthritis. Don't forget you'll be getting old here?

I think one of the things to do for research before you come down is research the negative things - cause almost everyone talks about the positive things and you won't lack for that kind of info, especially from the real estate and tourist operators.

Crime is everywhere, but the further you go away from the prime settlement areas, the less crime there will be. If you live around other rich folks, that in itself is an attraction for crime. Fighting that trend is futile, as the newspapers have documented for many years. So may be you might want to live a little more remote?

Some of you ask whether you can live comfortably here on figures between $1000 and $1500. Well,you can rent houses here for $50/month w/o inside toilet and minimal electric. We lived in one for two years and enjoyed it, sort of, and if you can deal with that, you'll be able to live for about $200/month with food, electricity. Houses with inside plumbing/toilet, ceilings and tile floor will be $200+ (Remember this is not the city or suburbs). We just completed our small 1 bedroom house and now have all the normal amenities and are living on about $500 a month and we live pretty good, have 1M internet, SkyTv, and go to town about twice a month.

I think the key to your success hinges on one important thing - that you speak Spanish. You'll pay less (sometimes), connect with your community, enjoying conversation with them as the moon comes up, and getting all the local news, as well as eliminating the inherent barriers between you and your neighbors.

Every village and city in Panama is unique. They do have personalities, and with your Spanish, you might go into a village and just sit down in the parque and start by initiating a conversation with one (or more) of the local folks, ask questions about them, what they do, about the  village, etc.  Have them take you around (most folks will) to see the possible rental houses, have lunch with them if possible, and don't offer anything (it's rude and you'll get your chance if you move in) Of course, if they did work for you or whatever just stick the money into their hand without comment.

The adventure the lifestyle here is unique and if you enjoy it, then don't wait for them to come to you - go for it.

That was the definition of rambling, eh?

Bob

CMichael

Hey everybody,

I started out planning to respond to certain posters on here with specific information, but it looks like some of our more seasoned bloggers have answered most of your questions. I simply wanted to mention a few areas of Panama that aren't mentioned enough. We always hear about Boquete, Volcan, David, Coronado (beachfront lifestyle, but pricey), and many other areas.

I took a trip out to Pedasi, a small town located on the southeastern most tip of the Azuero Peninsula, and I couldn't get enough of the place. It quickly became my favorite place in Panama. And it's rarely ever mentioned. Do yourself a favor and check it out if you're planning a trip to Panama. When you go to a place like Boquete, you'll find it heavily saturated with "gringos." There's nothing wrong with that. I'm a gringo, but I think most people leave the U.S., because they want to experience something different. When I visited Pedasi, I found a small walking town with expats from everywhere. It was awesome. I met an Australian couple, a realtor from the U.K., a really fun American couple who are building the first condo in the area, an Israeli expat building a brand new housing community, a French lady who runs her own souvenir shop, the burger joint is run by a Canadian...it just keeps going.

I have nothing to gain by mentioning the area (I know it sounds like I do). I actually visited the place to gather research for the company I work for (I write about areas of Panama each month), but I honestly fell in love with the place. My wife is Panamanian and won't move there because she wants to be near the excitement of the city (and unfortunately the traffic). Pedasi is a place where Tuesdays and Fridays many of the expats get together at a restaurant called Smiley's to drink cervezas and sangria while listening to a live local band play good ol' American comfort music. Two of the area's beaches are within walking distance (kind of a long walk, but still) and Playa Venao is a short taxi/bus ride away. You can hop a boat over to Isla Iguana and go snorkeling, diving, swimming, etc. for cheap.

Okay, so now that I've mentioned Pedasi, there are many other places not being mentioned. I liked Cerro Azul (although the roads are covered with potholes) which is a gated community (but without the cookie cutter homes you find in U.S. gated communities) at the top of a mountain, so close to Panama City that it could be considered part of the city. One expat I met there leaves the mountain to swing by all the major supermarkets at least once a week to pick up items for the hostel she runs. In fact, I think she's selling that hostel now, with all furnishings, and even her car. I think it's about $350,000 though. In Cerro Azul, you'll find cool weather almost every night of the year (around 70 degrees I believe).

I love the small town of Aguadulce. It would be boring to most people, but to me it was kind of like small town Oklahoma. Everyone walks or rides bikes, and everyone waves hello to friendly faces on the street. Near the one small beach in Aguadulce, two affordable restaurants serve plates full of fresh shrimp or corvina. Near the largest of the supermarkets there, Super Carne, a man sold live chickens on the corner. These things were walking around, pecking at feed, right beneath a sign mentioning they were for sale. If you want to buy one, he shoves it into a bag, and you're on your own at that point. Kind of barbaric...but small town Oklahoma like I said. This town doesn't have much to offer in the way of entertainment, but you can hop a small bus to any of the other nearby towns for very cheap.

I can go on and on about places not even mentioned. You can live in Rio Hato, not the expensive beach towns all around it, for very cheap. It's not the classiest of places, but if you want to run your own farm, this is the place to be. When I visited there I found a guy running a sugarcane farm, I found another guy picking fresh watermelons at his farm, and several corn fields. One old lady I met in town took me to her backyard where she was growing nearly every vegetable you can imagine.

Panama has every lifestyle you can imagine, but you have to be willing to leave the U.S. mindset behind. Will you find cable TV and internet and Smartphone service here? Absolutely. Those things are everywhere. However, you won't be able to walk into your local Target, grab a frappuccino (sorry for the spelling) and push your red cart up and down aisles and aisles of everything you might possibly need in one store. If your idea for retirement is to be left alone, or to sit out on your front porch in your hammock with a glass of Rum (Ron Abuelo) on ice, or to hang out with tons of Panamanian family and friends (if you speak Spanish) then this could be the place for you.

If you want a life of luxury, with all the fixin's, you might find it in expat areas like Boquete, or in more ritzy areas of the city like Costa del Este or Punta Pacifica. So many posters on here are right though. Panama isn't the United States. It's not as easy as some make it out to be. You can live a super-cheap beachfront lifestyle in towns like Las Tablas, however, you'll know as soon as you drive into that town that it's not Miami and it's certainly not San Diego or Naples. Some parts of this country are very much still third world. But isn't that why we come here in the first place?

Wow, this was too long to go back and re-read right now, so I apologize in advance for any spelling or grammar issues.

Good luck with your moving to Panama adventure!

Chris

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