I have just heard from an ex Filipina GF who now lives in Sweden ( next door neighbour to one of our regular contributors? ) that Café Havana in Greenbelt 3, Makati has shut its doors for the final time.
Manilian based expats will know of it as will regular visitors like myself. An icon on the Makati entertainment scene for not necessarily all the right reasons.
I always had a love hate relationship with this bar. The live bands were truly sensational with a rhythmic pulsating beat that even a tone deaf person could appreciate. But of course you had to put up with the ‘ladies of the night' propositioning you occasionally which became somewhat tiresome.
I've always been a great people watcher and would often sit down with a San Miguel beer outside under one of the umbrellas and watch the inter-actions between the various nationalities and wallow in the balmy evening having left behind a cold British winter. A cosmopolitan delight. The salsa dancing and live music gave the place a touch of class which I shall never forget.
The time zone between Phil and UK is usually 8 hours and the jetlag hits you soon after landing at Ninoy Aquino. For newbie readers who have never travelled to Asia before if you have not experienced it, beware the jetlag. If you go to bed before 2am in the morning you will wake up at 3am and no, most breakfast bars in hotels don't open until 6am.
My solution was to head over to CH about 10 (after I'd had my customary 2 hour jetlag massage) and sit at the bar and just chill on the lovely comfy bar stools. I shall never forget the look on the faces of foreigners who walked into the place for the first time - especially a few twenty somethings (usually squeeky clean Singapore expats) who probably thought that they were ‘street cred' regular nightclub visitors from home. Their brain could not process what was going on. This was Manila at its best in many senses. The venue was not like one of those large cattle market sized clubs you get with mindless eardrum breaking techno music blasting out where half the punters are on drugs - well I guess they had to be to enjoy the music. For the record I stopped going to clubs in the west when I was 21 so its not an age thing for me.
The bar had a Cuban theme and decor and served excellent food eaten inside or out. Live music started at 10 and thats when the fun would often begin. Ironically about 10% of the filipina visitors were non hookers and the seasoned regular could spot them a mile off. The beauty of this venue was its chic compact size. People would queue at the long elegant bar and wait to be served. By necessity you had to ‘invade' the individual persons ‘space' and so it was easy to start chatting.
I am a jazz lover and do some occasional reporting when on business trips for the London radio station Jazz FM and am always looking for venues with that something extra.
For some reason Makati nightlife has no middle ground. As a foreigner there weren't any 'normal' bars where you could meet locals. Filipinos tend to meet in restaurants or coffee shops. There were no ‘afterwork' venues that you get in other capital cities where the office crowd go for a drink - well none that I ever found. Hotel bars on the whole tend to be somewhat sterile.
A few years back I was given a business assignment in Jakarta. This city was a real eye opener and I hate to say but well ahead of Manila in terms of hotel choice, restaurants and ‘regular' bars and without a shadow of a doubt safety. Ironically (as you probably know) its a Muslim country but without the strict adherence to islamic laws so western dress is normal. I first visited in 2012 and found a really nice bar/restaurant called Loewy's in the downtown area - a sort of Café Havana but without the hookers! Often single guys or women will just come in and have a drink at the bar on their own without fear of being ‘accosted'. But if you wish to have a pleasant conversation Indonesians are some of the most gentle and friendly people I have ever met in Asia along of course with Filipinos!
For me the closure of CH (and the jazz bar/restaurant Bar Nu-Vo 3 years ago just further along) is sadly one less reason to visit Manila. The jazz radio station Crossover on 105.8FM shut down 3 years ago but at least is now online only (in high bit rate) which thankfully can be listened to anywhere in the world.
If any readers know of any non girly bars left in Makati do post!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6VE3-A45Oohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghucEJH7-OU